Farmall H Belly Pump

Hi, hope everyone had a great Christmas and has a super year ahead!! My Farmall H has the belly pump that works with 30w motor oil. Recently it has become contaminated pretty bad. I drained and refilled it twice with cheapo 30w motor oil. But now, this thing is leaking pretty bad. Not sure from where. I'm thinking, and hoping, its just the seals where the shaft passes thru. Has anyone ever pulled one of these out? Just wondering what all is involved with the removal and rebuilding of this pump?? Thanks for any input.
 
There is a seal on the drive shaft and a gasket on the cover. You have to remove the pump to work on it. It is heavy so a jack and some help is needed. Once out of the tractor you can unscrew the drive coupling (you'll need a brass rod to jam the gears to unscrew the coupling) and then you can remove the cover which will also contain the seal. A manual would be very helpful.
 
The seal is probably hard, and the adapter is probably worn where it rides on the seal. I replaced the seal in mine and it still leaked due to the wear. I wanted to have live hydraulics, so I just abandoned the belly pump and converted it. I would check on a sleeve all, others would know if they make them.
 
A nice crisp impact on good air will do it, but the dang things have been being tightened by the drive forces applied for 50 years. Jim
 
I have done several of these on the M. Some things to be aware of-- Try to take it apart very carefully, and you can use the gasket over. The seal will cost in
the $10.00 range. Most parts stores can get it for you. Since it is apart I would recommend that you replace the bronze bushings, they are very cheap, $3.00
each at a bearing supply house. If the drive shaft is buggered up don't give up, you can buy for about $30.00 a ready shaft that will solve your problems.
Power wash the inside of the shell, it will probably have goop in it. The hardest part will be getting the control lever into the fitting when you put the 2
halves back together. This will require help. This might sound complicated, but the pump is actually very simple. It is a good winter project for the garage or
basement. Good Luck, Ellis
 

Thanks everyone for all the input! I guess it isn't too hard to pull out, since nobody mentioned that part. I see that I would have to disconnect all the hose & pipe fittings. And I'm guessing the drive connects to that coupling. Also wondering.....once this is out, does it make it easier to change the clutch and possibly the rear crank seal as well as the front tranny seal?
 
It is HEAVY, put a floor jack under it, and get help to keep it on the jack while you lower it.

Some people put threaded rod in the bolt holes to guide it back up.
 
I believe you can work on the clutch but changing the rear engine seal requires the tractor be split. I have removed the clutch on my M with the pump removed but there is more room to work on an M.
 
To lower the pump make a T-Bar rod with tangs on the end and insert into the side of the pump. Look at the pump and you'll see where it goes. With a 2nd person this will help the pump from flopping over.

Larry
 
There's an easy way for one guy to stabilize this big heavy thing as you lower it. Remove the top oil-fill cap, and assemble several short pipe nipples and several threaded merchant couplings, one after the other, on the oil-fill port. I seem to remember it'll be 3/4" threaded size. They have to be small enough diameter to slide thru the opening, as the pump lowers. As you lower down, BUT BEFORE THE LAST ONE LEAVES THE TORQUE TUBE OPENING, thread on more and more nipples and couplings. Just lightly thread them on. As you build this, this assembly stabilizes the pump from flopping over as it goes down. Reverse to raise it.
 
This is all great information!! Thank you to all who responded. It'll have to be a spring or summer project for me, since I need these hydraulics for snow removal. Once this pump is out, is the tractor out of commission, or can it still be used (such as pulling logs) & or moved while the pump is on the bench??
 
The pump can be removed and the tractor operated forever. If you leave it out, I would put a temporary metal plate over the opening to keep out trash and splash. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 11:18:31 12/27/15) It is HEAVY, put a floor jack under it, and get help to keep it on the jack while you lower it.

Some people put threaded rod in the bolt holes to guide it back up.

Does anyone know what size of threaded rod this would take?
 
(quoted from post at 23:16:47 12/30/15)
(quoted from post at 11:18:31 12/27/15) It is HEAVY, put a floor jack under it, and get help to keep it on the jack while you lower it.

Some people put threaded rod in the bolt holes to guide it back up.

Does anyone know what size of threaded rod this would take?

It is 3/8" coarse thread. I cut four 9" pieces and it works great. You can thread nuts up as well to help control the roll or to temporarily hold the pump to reposition the jack if need be.
 
(quoted from post at 11:29:59 12/27/15) There is a seal on the drive shaft and a gasket on the cover. You have to remove the pump to work on it. It is heavy so a jack and some help is needed. Once out of the tractor you can unscrew the drive coupling (you'll need a brass rod to jam the gears to unscrew the coupling) and then you can remove the cover which will also contain the seal. A manual would be very helpful.

Well today was the day I decided to finally tackle this. I put a jack under the pump and replaced the 4 bolts with 9" pieces of allthread. They really helped stabilize the pump as it lowered along with a couple nuts to temporarily hold the pump to reposition the jack.

BUT <<<<<and this is a BIG BUT!!
The spline shaft at the top of the pump where the control lever attaches to, sticks out beyond the side of the pump and will not pass through the belly opening. I have the pump lowered to that point.

Is that something I have to take off somehow through the side hole while the pump is still mounted?? Other than that, there looks to be Just enough clearance to slip the pump out.

Any suggestions?
 

Ah, I got it. That shaft just had some play in it. I was able to push it into the case about 1/4" and then the pump slipped right out. Now for the teardown. Gonna go for the two seals on the front of the tranny as well. And since I'm going this far, I might as well break it and do that rear main seal as well as the clutch. Hopefully after all that, I won't have to go back into that belly ever again and hopefully no more oil leaks!! I'll keep you all updated for those that are interested.
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:42 12/27/15) I always put wood liners in my vise and tightened down on the 2 gears, put a steel bar in the coupling piece and hit with a hammer. I have done 4 successfully this way. Ellis

I might have to try this. I can't break it while jamming the gears through the intake with a brass rod. I'm assuming that by pulling that inner cover, those 2 gears will be exposed enough to put into a vise?? I got the coupling soaking with Kroil overnight. Hopefully the Kroil creeps in to ease the break. I hate jamming those gears with a bar, even if it is brass.
 

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