Farmall Super M LP Help

I just acquired this tractor yesterday and it's the first LP I've ever owned. I am needing a manual book etc on how the system works as far as operation and filling and also needing new seals for all the valves fuel filter assembly etc. it is still full of propane when I cracked the valve open. Just leaks from dried out seals and o rings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Is it a factory built or has it been converted from gas. You need to know the brand of equipment thats used for the LP system for starters.
 
Any photos?

I have fixed leaky stems on the factory valves with new O-rings. Often though someone has replaced the entire valve with later ones that are not cheaper to reseal vs. buying new. If the valve seat is damaged I don't know what you can do other than replace the valve.

The full tank is a problem. If not too bad and you're wearing thick gloves you can open the valve all the way and will leak somewhat less vs. partially open. You'll need to "engineer" a way to get the fuel into another tank. If you have a larger empty tank or several BBQ tanks you can hook into the T that's by the fuel filter and unload through there. That's where the nurse tank would hook up. You will lose some amount of propane in the hooking and unhooking. Read up on handling propane safely! You want a breezy place to work and remember that the liquid will freeze your skin on contact. DO NOT lose the little cap that you take off the T as nothing at the store is going to work as a replacement.

The filter is probably ok, but they are usually neglected and an inspection would be good.

Leaky valves is one of the painful parts of fixing up an LP tractor but once done they will last for decades. Propane is a good fuel.
 

The only thing that leaks is the fuel filter canister but while I'm at I'm going to replace every seal if they are available. It's all the ensign system
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Looks like a nice clean conversion. By photos I was meaning of the valves themselves but I didn't make that clear.

On the filter nut it's best to use a 6 point socket or wrench. The threads are usually dry and they can be hard to loosen. Keep in mind that the whole thing is brass so don't go too crazy on it.
 
The one valve you have is of the type that use o-rings for sealing.

You should have two lines though: One for liquid and one for vapor. I have a tank like that on a non-runner out back but I never paid attention to which valve is which. How is that one labeled? You want vapor for starting and then open the liquid for when you start heavy work. Putzing around the yard can be done on the vapor valve. In warmer climates you can often get away with just a liquid draw as there is enough residual heat to boil it off until the water starts to warm up the regulator/vaporizer.

I would lose the rubber hose from the tank pronto. I see in the photo that it's rated for LP but I would not trust it due to age and weathering. The factory used heavy copper lines, at least a type "k" if not heavier.

This conversion doesn't have the "T" I mentioned in another reply but that can be added if you want.
 
The two with caps on them seem to be fill lines and I'm assuming the far right is the vapor. They were using this tractor in the cotton fields last year. Do you have pictures of what I'm supposed to have?
 
First photo is a tank similar to yours. Unfortunately the valves are not labeled. You can see how they T the liquid and vapor together.
Second photo is another plain M using copper lines. They T and then go to the filter.
Third photo is a factory Super M LP. Copper lines and filter close to the valves.
Fourth photo is a factory 450 LP. Lines T right in front of filter and then there is another T downstream of the filter with one end capped where you tie in a nurse tank.
Fifth photo is back the Super M showing the T fitting.

With the valve out of the tank, the liquid fitting will have a tube that goes toward the bottom of the tank and the vapor fitting may have one that goes toward the top. I say may because some tanks may have valves near the top of the tank already and omitted the vapor extension tube (like the first two photos).
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Okay it all makes since now. So for what I'm going to be using it for I can get by with vapor which is what it's set up for now. My question is now is can I get seals and such for the filter assembly and valves?
 
The original type with the square boss I have stopped leaking by replacing the O-ring that goes around the stem. That's if the leak is around the stem when the valve is opened. If the problem is that the valve won't shut off then the face seal is bad and I don't think that's repairable. On those valves it's not necessary to remove the body of the valve from the tank. Remove the handle and there will be a nut underneath then you can unscrew it out of the valve body.

On the filter it just has a round flat gasket under the nut and between the mount and the shell. Use thin gasket material and make a new one. The ones I've opened where the gasket survived I just put thin layer of silicone and put it back together.
 

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