Duals on 450

ChasK

Member
I'm looking to get a set of duals to put on my 450. It doesn't have spin out rims.
I'm I limited to axle mount, or will clamp-on work?
Does anyone have pictures of clamp-ons that would help me visualize what hardware I would need?
35322.jpg
 
Whatever kind you want or have. Some clamp on used eyes that screwed on in place of the wheel clamp nuts and then rods to rim. But the clamp on rim needs brackets on it for the attaching rods and rim spacer to inside rim.
 
If you are looking to spread the weight of tractor.....clamp on's will do the job but may lead to snapped bolts on inside wheel axle clamps. Looking to get threw a few wet and muddy spots....wide spaced axle duals
much better.

John
 
You can get away with clamp on's on them but it does stress the clamp bolts . Lets say that your base tires are loaded and say you have three sets of donuts on it also your old 450 can get close to the 10000lbs. mark in total weight , so when the outside dual wheel goes over a hump and has half the weight on that tire and wheel it has a lot of leverage that all goes onto the inside two axle bolts . Now you can eliminate so of the stress on those bolts and the cast center by running the air pressure on the duals lower then the base tires . Say you have the base tires at say 15 lbs pressure and you run the duals at 10 psi pressure . This way the dual will mush out a bit and allow the base tire to carry some of the load . Where a lot of guys around here got in trouble running duals was the fact that the base tires and wheels were set for row crop farming on a 38 inch row set then they would trow on a set of clamp on's that had a spacer ring that allowed for 4-6=8 inches between the base tire and the dual tire and ran the same air pressure in both the base and the dual , this added in a LOT of stress on the cast center the bolts and axles and housings . I had one customer that has a 966 and every spring it was the panic call to go over and replace clamp bolts as he would break no less then four and only want to replace one at a time instead of replacing both on the same side at darn near a hundred bucks a pop it got expensive . Tried to tell him many times to go direct axle mounts or change centers to wedge loc's . The year our 1066 went down at the start of spring work with a rear end failure and we had to press my raggedy old 806 into the main tillage tractor pulling everything that the 1066 pulled we borrowed the set of clamp ons off the guy that kept breaking axle bolts . And i forgot to drop the air pressure in the dauls and in short order i broke and axle clamp bolt while discing and i replaced both on the back side THEN dropped the air pressure . Now you can relieve some stress on the cast center by moving your base tire in towards the tractor by moving the tire and rim in to the outside bevel and this will center up the load placed on the cast center and also the bolts. Yea it is more work but it is a lot less work then having the bolts break in the field . If you go direct axle mounts here again i would move the base wheel and tire in with the center moved in to about and inch from the axle bearing cap and move the tire and rim onto the outside bevel , them set the dual hub about and inch or so away from the cast center , then you can run the same air pressure on the daul and the base .
 
i usually run the outside dual with less pressure like about 6 lbs. so its not so hard on the axles
 
Wrong color, but this is basically what clamp-on duals look like. You will use 4 clamps because you only have 8 lugs on the tractor, just as pictured. These are called T-rail duals, but you can also get a different style clamp that hooks over the bead of the dual rim.

mfwd-t-rail-wheels-deere.jpg
 
I think you might be able to squeeze a dual hub on. However, it will be a pain to tighten the bolts on the hub once it is on the axle. I have a 400 with standard cast centers and duals, I'll
attach a picture to give you an idea of what it looks like.
 
Back when we used our
M for light tillage,
we dualed it up. We
had the fenders set
in, the inside wheels
we had the cast dish
inward, pretty much as
close to the fender
and axle housing as it
would go. It was
always left that way.
When we needed the
duals, we had a set of
the regular M cast hub
wheel centers and
rims, and we would
just slide them on,
dished out, with a
couple inches between
the tires. Tighten the
axle clamp on the hubs
and go to work.

Ross
 
I've always run snap on duals.Got 4 sets on 4 different tractors.Never had an issue. However,last year I 'snapped' the axle
clamp bolts on the 706.Was pulling a roller harrow over some pretty rough couditions. Extreme circumstance.I use 'J' bolts
instead of the 'boomer' type shown below.Last year I got my first set of 'hub' duals for the 1256. A post below talks about
'eyes'/loops for attatching to wheels. Pretty easy to set up a tractor.BTW,clampon duals can work on any tractor that has
'eyes',so axle size is not an issue.
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:16 04/22/16) A 450 don't have enough power to need duals,thats kinda putting duals on a cub.

Really? Obviously you do not understand why it is advantageous to spread out the weight of the tractor. Rated horsepower has nothing to do with it.
 

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