Wiring Harness

I build them all the time. Not all that hard to do if you know how to read a wiring diagram or are like me and due to what I did in the Navy I can do them in my sleep
 
Yep , been building them for just about everything i have worked on . I have the correct terminal ends plugs wire colors and gauges on hand . I have a 2foot by 8 foot 3/4 piece of plywood that i use to build them on . I even have the correct loom to put them in . If you have MOST of the old harness it makes it easier as i would lay it out on the board and stretch it out straight and then where each wire ended i would drive a #4 finish nail and taag it as to what it hooked to and once i had all the lenghts layed out i would remove the old and start layen the new wire to that nail if the wire was short then i would just guesstamate how much more i needed and add that and finish that wire on the tractor . I only use heavy duty ends not the cheap junk ya find at the big box auto parts stores . You can find heavy duty ends at truck supply places. Costs a bit more but it only costs a buck more to go first class.
 
Yes i get the covering its nylon braid push it together and it expands to pass the wire thru looks good when done. Solder ends and use shrink wrap on the ends looks great when done
 
$236 for the one I have ordered for my 300U--but that is a fraction of what it costs me to restore the 300U in maybe 2 years. The harness costs that much because it is exactly the same as the original ones. I think they are not in stock, but built as they are ordered. They can be bought from CaseIH for less than that. I have done that too.
 

when i converted my SC over to 12v i found a wiring diagram here on line. it showed what guage wire to use at what terminal. saved a LOT of $$$ doing it that way

bass
 
The CaseIH harnesses are not "period correct" though. If your tractor calls for cloth-covered wires, for example, you will not get cloth-covered wires.

When you make your own, you have to buy wire in bulk, connectors in bulk, looming in bulk, all the tools... and spend hours learning how to make wiring harnesses. For one wiring harness it's cheaper to get it pre-made.
 
Depends what you want. I built mine for my 1966 140. It sort of happened piece-by-piece. The original harness was pretty lame, and needed a few new wires back in the 70s. When I went to an alternator in the early 90s, I ripped out all the old stuff, added new wires where needed, and put split loom from NAPA as required to make a new harness. I did NAPA crimp-on terminals using a good Klein tool and then covered with heat shrink tubing. I later upgraded the main light wire to 10ga. when I went to Piper Cub landing light bulbs in the headlights and rear fed by the 80A alt. I used an old three-wire black AC cord from a dead power tool for the rear harness. I got rid of the troublesome rotary switch and went to aircraft toggles for the lights and went to two fuses.

It's not period correct at all (a 1966 is no antique and mine is a working tractor, not show) Still, it looks fine and does the job with 100% reliability (so far). I bought 25ft spools of red, black, green, yellow and purple in 12 ga. I just don't use anything smaller. Plus red in 4 ga. for the main alt wire. I had no diagram but I have no need for one. I know where it all goes. I put all the spools on a piece of broomstick and hung it in the shop. Leftovers come in handy all the time.

There was no pre-made alternative anyway for an alternator 140 with no blinkers and Piper Cub landing lights. I probably have the only one.
 

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