Farmall 504 voltage regulator

Bkpigs

Member
I went through the generator on my 504 and everything seemed fine. The amp light went off while running. Today I went to start the tractor and nothing. No lights on the dash. Hooked the battery charger up and the generator started humming like it was wanting to turn. I unhooked the arm wire from the generator and tried the charger again. This time the voltage regulator was humming. I removed the regulator and got the tractor started. I took the regulator apart expecting to find something welded together and shot but found nothing. The points above the Batt terminal were open and the other two were closed. Nothing looked burned and the points moved easily. Where should I go from here? How can I test the voltage regulator on the bench? I am thinking of doing the single wire alternator but would like to know what is wrong for future reference. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Yep, just went out and double checked. When I put the charger on with the gen and/or the regulator hooked up the amp reading on the charger went to the full rating for the amp selection (i.e. 20 amps when the charger was on 20 and 40 when on 40). When the two were removed it would barely register a reading.
 
If the battery is charged, (while the Regulator is disconnected at the Bat terminal) the next step is to use a volt meter to see what the reading is from the bat wire to the bat terminal while not connected. There should be no voltage. The Bat terminal should be disconnected from all internal components. If it shows volts, the vr is bad. Now measure resistance (OhmsX1 scale) from the Bat terminal on the reg. to ground. Conduction bad, no conduction good. Now remove the Arm wire from the reg. and test the Bat terminal to Arm connection with ohms. None is good Any conduction is bad. Jim
 
ok, so what you are saying is the batt terminal should be isolated. I will check that out tonight. Thanks.
 
Iffffffffffff alls well and the battery and charger polarity are correct???? The VR's Cutout Relay (between BAT and GEN/ARM terminals) should OPEN when the tractor isn't running but CLOSE ONLY once the genny is producing sufficient voltage. Otherwise (like if contacts are stuck or welded shut) if you shut the tractor off the ammeter will show high - discharge, the genny would spin if no belt, and battery will discharge rapidly.

If the cutout relay contacts aren't stuck Id re polarize the genny before start up to be safe and try her again.

As far as telling if non charging is the fault of the VR or the genny, see Para 5 below for my VR by pass test.

John T
Joihn Ts Charging Troubleshooting
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top