656 hydraulic control valve - what will I be reparing?

sco 656

New User
Hi, My hydraulic control valve will spray fluid out the end cap when I pull the lever to operate a remote cylinder. I have a repair manual and a part schematic from Case/ih but having never opened up the control valve and seeing a lot of little parts on the schematic I am not sure what will need to be replaced other than o-rings. Scott
 
It is difficult to tell some one how to take these apart online. It is quite simple but if you don't do it in the correct sequence you will never get the detent balls etc in place . There is a little detent piston inside with an even smaller o-ring on it(it is so small IH sells the piston with the o-ring right on it as it is very difficult to install). That is most likely what is leaking. There are three more o-rings in valve also. . You can unhook the lever from the front of valve spool and unscrew the large cap from the rear, if whole detent tube comes along you are in bussiness, gently pull entire spool out to rear. If the threaded cap comes loose, and detent tube doesn't you may be able to get a hold of it with a pipe wrench and loosen that part. The valves are so close together you may need to devise a different method of getting it loose. Take the spool assembly to someone familiar with their disassembly and repair.
Caution, do not attempt to over tighten the large plug to make detent tube loosen with plug. Had a customer do that once, broke valve.
 
Am I reading your reply right in that I can take this apart while still on the tractor as apposed to complete removal of the valve from the tractor?
Thanks, Scott
 
You can take the valve apart in place (or at least you can on a 544) but be very careful. You can easly lose the detent balls, springs, etc.
 
There was a discussion of this problem about a year ago. Do a search for " auxiliary valve repair 656 " and you will find the information you need.
 
A strap wrench will sometimes work to get the detent tube loose if it is not TOOOOO tight. More room to work and will not leave marks like a pipe wrench.
 
I Just read your archived reply from March of last year - that is a easy to follow explanation of how to repair it. Thanks to all for giving me courage with knowledge to attempt this repair.
Scott
 
Listen to Owen. He knows and is a good guy. Follow his instructions to the tee. It will be the small (tiny) piston with the ever so small o-ring that is leaking 97% of the time. Comes complete from IH for around 15 to 20 bucks.

Jerry Gilliam
 

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