560 TA clutch exploded

WilliamMN

New User
Have you ever seen a TA and TA clutch and parts like this before? Bet she made a heck of a BANG when she blow!! I guess I should just order a whole TA clutch kit and another TA?? What's the cheapest way to go about this? I've seen kits up $800 with shipping. I can't spend that much.
 
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I am thinking you will be North of $1,200.00 plus you probably should do the main clutch while it is open.

The kits I put in mine did not have the carrier flywheel or gasket set so you will need some extra parts. Also get the quad ring for the suction tube, springs for TA throw out.
 
I don't know that much about it but look on Ebay link : http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=560+TA&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X560+TA+clutch+kit.TRS0&_nkw=560+TA+clutch+kit&_sacat=0
 
Yep i have , my vary first T/A job on my Farmall 450 D . Let a neighbor borrow the tractor to drill post holes with , HOw much damage can they do Drilling post holes. Well they really did not know how to start the tractor and they tried to start it with out pulling the switch over lever back onto the gas side and ran the battery dead in short order , So out comes the starting chain and they started dragging it down the road with both tractors in road gear. and when they let the clutch pedal up nothing happened because they had the T/A lever pulled back into the low side and when they let the lever go forward all kinds of pieces and parts come flyen out of it even breaking the center section and sending one piece into the bottom of the fuel tank and ripping a nice size hole into it . This happened before you could buy a rebuilt unit and it was each piece had a price tag on it . LOTS of pieces and parts plus finding a center section and the trip to get it and a new used fuel tank. Now being this was the first time dissecting a at the time a BIG tractor i enlisted the help of one local I H mechanic to sorta hold my hand and he brought all the toys for the job from the dealership. But now you can get rebuilt units and yes by the time your done you will have a grand or better in it , But even back in 1969 i had over 1200 in mine with no labor. PLayen with big boy toys cost mucho dinero when they go yuck yucko phueeeee .
 
All it takes is running down a hill in low or second at about 15 mph with the TA back. Spinning the TA at 6000rpm is not good policy. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 15:28:29 02/02/16) Yep i have , my vary first T/A job on my Farmall 450 D . Let a neighbor borrow the tractor to drill post holes with , HOw much damage can they do Drilling post holes. Well they really did not know how to start the tractor and they tried to start it with out pulling the switch over lever back onto the gas side and ran the battery dead in short order , So out comes the starting chain and they started dragging it down the road with both tractors in road gear. and when they let the clutch pedal up nothing happened because they had the T/A lever pulled back into the low side and when they let the lever go forward all kinds of pieces and parts come flyen out of it even breaking the center section and sending one piece into the bottom of the fuel tank and ripping a nice size hole into it . This happened before you could buy a rebuilt unit and it was each piece had a price tag on it . LOTS of pieces and parts plus finding a center section and the trip to get it and a new used fuel tank. Now being this was the first time dissecting a at the time a BIG tractor i enlisted the help of one local I H mechanic to sorta hold my hand and he brought all the toys for the job from the dealership. But now you can get rebuilt units and yes by the time your done you will have a grand or better in it , But even back in 1969 i had over 1200 in mine with no labor. PLayen with big boy toys cost mucho dinero when they go yuck yucko phueeeee .

DAM!!! :shock: I hope your neighbor payed for the damage!
 
Yea how well i know . Borrowed a friends 584 and had to fix the brakes , Borrowed his 1086 and had to buy him a new tire because the side wall let go just driving down the road. Borrowed a 410 John Deere hoe off another friend and had to fix the lights so i could get the job done and have it back to him the next day . Also wanted to use one of his 4 John Deere 750 dozers , yea no problem #3 is up on a job we just finished you can take that one and no hurry on getting it back , it's full of fuel. OK so i have to go thirty miles to the job site , I check it all over before i loaded it as far as fluid levels and never gave it a thought about looking under it . So sick my key in it and fire it up and drove it about a half mile to the trailer spun it around and backed up on the trailer and chained it down sorta in a rush . I did not notice the trail of RED oil until i went to flip the ramps. There was a trail as far as i could see and the puddle on the deck . Darn must be that one O/Ring that at times blows , NAH it was NOT that pesty O/Ring , it was the right side hydro motor that had come loose from the side of the case . Real easy fix , once you removed the Rops the fuel tank seat both hyd oil tanks and all the controls deck plate batterys battery boxes and stand on your head to get to the bolts or pull the winch off and what i had to work with would not handle the weight of the winch . Three days of working on it and two days working it . and oh the fifty five gallon drum of J D hydrastatic oil . When i took it back he says did ya get the leak fixed . Ya ever want to go Postal on someone . And word to the wise when one is working on a dozer with a ROPS never tighten any bolt till ya have them all in on anything that comes into contact with the mounting of the ROPS And that pesty O/Ring that i talked about earlier they were fun to do also , i use to keep a half dozen of them on the turn signal lever in my pick up when i worked around them all the time.
 
A few years ago I worked on 504 for fellow that was pulled home from auction behind pickup.Well long story short Ta blew up and broke center section.I double split her brazed patch over hole and went parts shopping. It cost him a bunch but worked great when I got her done.Scott
 
I should be a little more clear with my post. I don't care if the TA works. The guy that drove it last said the TA did not work anyways before the he blew the clutch apart. I just want the tractor useable and drivable for baling and light duty hobby farm work. What if I got the new/used clutch kit and but that old TA back in that didn't work anyways?
Will that help me on the cost and will it cause problems?
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:03 02/03/16) I should be a little more clear with my post. I don't care if the TA works. The guy that drove it last said the TA did not work anyways before the he blew the clutch apart. I just want the tractor useable and drivable for baling and light duty hobby farm work. What if I got the new/used clutch kit and but that old TA back in that didn't work anyways?
Will that help me on the cost and will it cause problems?

Looks like yer TA housing is broke?????
 
Blown TA will not allow the tractor to move. The components are cracked and dangerous the sprag clutch is not operational. Kevin Meier who posts here has components to do it right and at the same price points as a eliminator Kit. Jim
 
The bearing is cracked. Can you just replace that? And some of the pins are missing on the other half that bolts to the housing that holds the roller bearings in that the cracked bearing goes into.......
 
Lot of different ways of repairing that TA. Problem is I cannot see what parts are damaged for sure. If the carrier with planets are good enough to hold a bearing on each end , you can throw the sprag, or what ever over running clutch you have, away. Then you can make the 7 inch clutch a solid drive by several different methods. When we don't have money, we can make things work but it is not always pretty. Lot of old tractors running around with various methods of eliminating the TA.
 
For cheap remove the old rollers, pins and springs. Remove front seal and weld the sun shaft to carrier in the seal space. Provided planet carrier is okay like straight and not broken. Weld Good enough not to leak, then make small welds to planet gears to carrier on ends. Put a new bearing or both if needed on carrier and just use clutch shaft to drive transmission. No t/a clutch part needed. If splines at coupling are about shot joining parts and don't want to have another problem something else may be wanted.
 
Thank you very much. I'm going bring the parts into my local blacksmith/machinist/tractor mechanic and show him what you wrote on my smart phone and see if he can do that. He's very good at almost everything. Sounds like it would save $$$ if it will work.
 

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