706 loader tractor?

How well would a 706 diesel work as a loader/chore tractor? My main loader/chore tractor is down for the count with crank problems. Long story but I am about to have a knee replaced and need something a little better in the mud than my 560 turbo with a farmhand loader. With so much weight on the front{schwartz} it sinks like a rock or plows when you turn. I could get by with it but the young man that will feed for me doesnt have my experience. Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
 
We had an early 706 (282) about 30 years ago as our loader tractor,had a 2350 loader on it.Worked pretty decent,was a bit light on rear when handling large round bales though.Later on we put loader on the 1066 Hydro,that was better. Our 706 was a standard tread model too. I currently have a German 706 standard tread with Ezee-on loader,but it mostly gets used for moving snow,or a bit of dirt work in summer.Its a pretty decent unit and I don't have much money in it either.
 
Keep the 560.IMHO,a 560 is a better loader than a '7'. The front axles are the same.Put on bigger tires on the front to help with the sinking problem. A 706 wont be a bit stronger on the front. A '7' is a heavier tractor,about 15 horse bigger.A 560 and early/mid 706 share the same gas or diesel engine. 706 is easier to get on/off. But you will hate the way they shift under a loader.

Your best 'solution' is to load the rear tires with fluid and add cast wts. A weight box hanging off the rear end is an added bonus.
 
Thanks for the replies Deltared and D1206. Delta I plan on keeping the 560, you couldnt pry it away from me. I have picked up 2 5 foot rolls of hay at a time with it. I love the sound of the old 282 with the turbo. I am just concerned about the kid feeding for me. I dont guess a 706 would do any better. I have tried to simplify where he has to feed so maybe he will do ok. Thanks for the help. Lee
 
Two things come to mind...

1) When I was in high school my grand dad wouldn't let me plow with his John Deere B because "I wasn't strong enough to handle it" (I was about 6' tall, 185#, ran track and cross country and baled hay all summer) My dad found out about it and told grandpa (who was 140# but tough) "that boy could probably turn you over his knee and give you a spanking" Grandpa had to laugh a little and told dad if he wanted to let me take a few rounds in the field I could. Just had to be taught what to do.

2) I'm older now. Have a fence business and my one and only helper was out with a broken wrist. My part time secretary said her daughters boyfriend could help till the other guy got back to work. His experience was driving a fork lift. Figured he could drive a tractor and drive staples...Wrong!!! He could drive the tractor ok but not the staples if his life depended on it. How is it possible that someone couldn't swing a hammer??? Called dad again and voiced my frustration. Dad laughed...has anyone ever showed him how to swing a hammer? I said good point, I'll try. He still wouldn't have won any awards but was 100% better and he tried. Just had to be taught what to do.

Maybe before you're out of commission you could teach the kid some of your experience? Hope you heal fast and all goes well. God Bless and good day. Jim
 
Check the archives for updating a 706 to 756 shifting.

For someone with knee problems, how much would a hydrostatic drive tractor reduce the number of times an operator needs to step on the clutch and on the brakes?
 
Amen to that...Hydrostats are awesome. might check reviews on whatever you might buy though. I have a 32 HP John Deere 4310 and It will do a lot of work fast with a loader. Not sure I will buy green when I trade this one.
 
Thanks Jim, I have taught him quite a bit but the rest comes from just doing it. He is a good hand but I am just trying to put him in good shape. He will do ok I just dread him getting stuck and me not being able to drive a tractor to pull him out. Doc says I will have to abstain from tractor driving for 6 weeks.
 
You can convert a '06 to '56 shifting in about a half day.My 706 is 'converted'.The only 'bolt on' is from a 756. However ,a 'kit' from a larger tractor(856,1256,966,1066...) can be shortened/modifyed to fit a '7'.I have done 3 706 and one 806. The three '7's used 'kits' from 1256(2) and a 1066. The 806 was from a 856.Parts are 300 to 500 from salvage yards. I charge $100 to cut down a 'kit' to fit 706.IIRC,I charged $250 each to convert the tractors.As was said,a Hydro is awsome under a loader. 656;Hydro 70 or 826 Hydro would fit the bill.
 
For a lot of loader work IMOP they SUCK . First low is to slow , second low is so so and third low is to fast for some things Then comes backing up , first reverse is about wright second rev is to fast , Yes the shifter on a 56 sires is better but the gears are the same . I ran a loader on a 706 for awhile , it got the job done and that was about it. For loader work day in and day out ya want something that has a shuttle shift . And what makes for a super great farm loader is a used industrial articulate 4 wheel drive loader . W14 Case , Michigan 45-55 . Ford A62 , Deere 444-555 . I H 65 Dresser 510-515 All of them are in the 1 1/2- 2 yrd class machines ,They are fast , they have 4 wheel drive , you set high so you can see , have great lifting capacity . Some come with quick change bucket , most have cabs WITH HEAT and you can find them for less then a decent 1066 in price .. If you are stuck with loving I H stuff then stick with a I H or dresser and they share the same engines as the tractors Same with the Case , Now Michigans used a lot of Detroits some did have Cummins and can be retro fitted to a 3.9 or 5.9 out of a Dodge Fords used there inline six I think my have been a four cylinder in the A62 and the six in the A66 , Only ran one for a day and never paid much mind to what it had as i more or less swapped seats from the dozer to the loader to keep the stone box full with stone and kept the pipe going to the ditch on a serwer job when one of the guys had to leave for and emrengcy . Two things ya need to check for on them is BRAKES and center pins and the usual oil leaks .
 

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