400 with bad TA

Luke470

Member
I'm looking at buying a 400 with a bad TA.
Not sure what's wrong with it but let's say it's totally shot...how much would a replacement cost and does replacement require splitting the tractor?

Do the 400 have any common issues / problems?

Thanks!
 
Yes it is a double split and the last one i bought my cost was 475 plus other stuff , your cost maybe more . Doing one is not that hard if you have the toys to play with. with out it can be done but way harder . There are several special tools that make the job go easier , one is the special socket to remove the nut that hold the T/A flywheel to the carrier , next is the seal slip collar and the seal driver for the ft. seal. Now there are a couple others if your going to do the complete rebuild and not just swap in a rebuilt unit.
Ya need spliting stands and a cherry picker or a moveable A frame and blocking and TOOLS and a BOOK . Beer helps. and also knowing all the correct words ..
 
I did my first tractor split on a 400. It's not a hard job but you will need to fabricate a splitting stand for the front end. Blocks may work but be
careful with them. I think I used a blocks on the rear. The only other bit of advice I have from my dealings with it is be prepared to spend some
money. I want to say mine cost 1500+ but I did a paint job and rewire at the same time so that cost is on my mind too. I also bought a rebuilt
TA vs parts as the vet is speaking of. Once I got in there I needed a new IPTO shaft, TA clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, seals, I also did
the main clutch while it was apart.
 
You can make a stand out old M Farmall side rails if you can get some, you then weld a 2in square tubular pieces between them, after you have it bolted on to the tractor, and leave it high enough off the floor,to put your floor jack, or bottle jack, in there. Put the ears down, then you got a stand for the m-450.
 
I did two of them. I went as cheap as I could, or did the bare minimum. I would feel better about them if I had replaced the ramps also, instead of just the pins, springs and rollers. I bought a Video of the repair and also had a book. Between the two, it is fairly easy to understand. The bottom bolt, that is hid on the inside of the housing, was the only real head scratch er, for why the T/A housing did not want separate from the rear housing.

The shift levers can wear, where they contact the shift rails. You may need to re build it. The left inner axle bearing can go bad and break the center housing. Check to see if it has been repaired in that area. If they are not worked hard enough, moisture will accumulate in the rear end. Try to drain any water out by loosening, but not completely removing the drain plug from the rear end.
SDE
 

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