966 needs weights on rear

have a 966 with a dual 3100 quick tach loader. picking up my 1400 lb round bales this year I can't get much traction to the rear. does one just keep adding weight till it moves ok or is there a magic number to start with? no fluid in the tires, no cast weights at this time. just chains and that wont do it.
Gary
 
Well i will get nailed to the cross , drawen and quartered for this but , Load the rear tires with Cal if you have not done that yet. Yes if they start leaking in time they will rust out the rim . So if it leaks ya fix the leak , then ya clean the rim and put the tire back on . Add wheel weights like for or five sets , just so they do not stick out to far past the tire. then ya make up a weight box or block of cement that you can hang off the three point if needed. I do not think you can put enough weight on for loader work as it is far better to have more then not enough . Some times buying and older Industrial four wheel drive ft. loader is good money well spent . Like a W14 Case, a Michigan 55 , John Deere 444-544, Hough 65, Dresser 510-515 . As long as the center pins are tight and they have brakes that work and a transmission that shifts . And the BIGGIE a CAB with HEAT and doors and glass. IMHO they are great for loader work , silage pushing and packing and snow removal , loading lime into trucks and they are balanced for lifting . And the good thing is you can find a decent one for the price of just a decent 966 with out the loader.Just my two cents worth .
 
Agreed with the vet.Load the tires with calcium. then add cast wts. A wt box on rear is a plus.Remember,for every pound up front(loader/bucket/'load'),one pound is 'removed' from the back end.
 
it's only got 2 point so would have to find a way to convert a bale carried but probably the easiest way to do it. trying to stay away from calcium so basically need to add 1400 lbs to the back of the tractor.
Gary
 
Easyest/cheapest way to 'convert' is to get a set of conversion/adapter 'prongs' with a ball in the end and a top link.If your tractor doesnt have a top link plate,then you will need one of those too.
 
Unless rear overhang is an issue put a bale on the 3 pt hitch or make a frame to take suite case weights. The payloader is the best . Easier to deal with rear wheels not loaded. max-nz
 
I have 4 sets of IH wheel weights on my 1066, and its still not great picking up heavy items with my 2350 loader.If your tires are in good shape, i would consider windshield washer fluid or beat juice in your rear tires. Might cost a bit more them calciam, but won't eat out your rims. Kent
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In reality you really need to add more then one pound for every pound out ft. due to the distance from the center of the ft. spindle to the end of the load . It is called leverage . I use to use a 706 with a 2000 loader to handle stuff like plows , disc, planters wagons , you name it and learned real fast that loaded tires five sets of donuts and a rack of 10 100 lb ft weights on the fast hitch was still not enough . so i added a 1000 more to the back , but that was when i could buy 100 lb ft weights for ten buck a weight and get a new chain in the deal . Worked good till i went to lift a Brillon cultimulcher off the trailer , Yep i could lift a 13 footer and all was good till i went to MOVE . Got just far enough away from the trailer to where it just cleared the trailer and even with the weight i had on the back it was NOT ENOUGH , i almost flipped the tractor had i not hand my hand on the loader valve and shoved it into float as soon as the tractor started up it wouold have throwen me out of the seat and flipped the tractor . I was vary lucky in two ways i saved the tractor and myself and i did no damage to the piece . The next time i handled one of them i did not hook it out on the end of the six foot boom pole as i added in a second hook point half way back on the boom pole for the heavy lifting . When they loaded that piece on the trailer at the sale THEY did not have a problem but oh they had a 4 wheel drive Michigan 55 wheel loader . One can not load the back end of a two wheel drive tractor enough for loader work IMHO .
 
Oh you dod not say you had a fast hitch , heck thats easy you just get to prongs and make up a weight box that will set down on the ground with the hitch all the way down and that makes it real easy to add or subtract weight , just back click and go . so you want weight make the box as big as you want (bigger is better ) then fill it with heavy scrap , cement , what ever . About 3/4 yds of concrete should do and if in doubt make it a yard . Gees that is easy . and the cost of this will be in the price range of four 100 Lb weights at todays prices.
 
you just reminded me of something. I think a buddy of mine has a set up like that off his old 400 he use to have. good thing you made me think of that. might work out great and I got two 700lb concrete weights I took off the rear wheels of my Minnie moe 10 years ago I forgot about till now...darn the luck...
 
It easy and dont cost to much. Get some 3/4 inch threaded rods and just put 5 or 6 wheelweights on each side. That way up dont have to put calcium in tires and you wont have hitch tied up with a weight back there. IH wheel weights are cheap to buy. They usually sell for abbout $75.00 a pair arround here. Some people get tired of having them laying arround and are scrapping them.
Goog luck,
Bob
 
And just how many wheel weight will it take to equal one loaded tire?????? Like about twelve EACH side Gees you guys and your phobia of cal in a tire . If you NEVER get a hole in the tube it will NOT eat the rim out . If you do get a HOLE in the TUBE and you just keep pumping air in then yes in about ten years or more . Plus he has the advantage since he has a FAST HITCH as he can drop the weight box off and be gone before you remove two lynch pins. Also is your LIFE worth the cost of just one NEW RIM . When you have a BIG loader on a tractor or for that Fact a small loader on a small tractor even loaded tires are not enough you REALLY need MORE .
 
I agree. Just put the calcium in, tractor that size you will probably end up with 800-1000lbs PER tire. It's cheap and easy, and your rims will be fine for many many years!

Once that's done, start adding more weight in other areas if needed.
 
Just for a comparison, my 1086 loader tractor has five weights per wheel. Three on the inside and two on the outside. In the winter I hang a 1300 pound weight on the three point hitch, I call the weight my 'poor man's front assist'. For three winters I used it to load three big square bales at a time on semis. The bales weighed 1200 pounds apiece so I was carrying 3600 pounds. I loaded about 450 tons total over the three years. The ground was frozen around the outside of the stack but was thawed and a little soft where the bales had been sitting so after hauling away a few columns of bales my front wheels were sinking a little into the soft ground but the rears were still on frozen with limited traction. I did have some trouble backing away from the stack in this situation but I was carrying 3600 pounds on the loader. On the occasions when I w as carrying only one 1200 pound bale there wasn't a hint of traction trouble. I eventually quit loading bales because I was afraid of breaking off a front wheel or worse. So to sum it up, if I was carrying three bales traction was minimal at best, if I was carrying one bale there was no problem with traction.
 
Tires are not loaded. Had a bad experience with fluid and a split rim that shot the stuff under the cab on this tractor. Fluid does give the best traction though.
 

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