300U block heater?

Dave H (MI) · Jan 11, 2016

This tractor is in the garage out to the farm house 20 miles away so it's not handy to look at. Is there a plug in the block somewhere for a heater or do I have to go with the radiator hose type? Looking to add a heater to help with these cold days. Recommendations on a good heater would be appreciated also. Thanks!

Bkpigs · Jan 11, 2016

You will need either an inline heater like you suggested or a magnetic one. Haven't tried either style.

Lpakiz Larry · Jan 12, 2016

There is a device called a "frost plug heater" that is a heating element that is inserted into the side of the block, into the water jacket, in place of the frost plug, AKA a welch plug. Your auto parts store should be able to help you.
One brand name was Kats.

D beatty · Jan 12, 2016

If you can find place to tap into engine a tank style heater work great. Tank heater can be had in larger wattage than hose or freeze plug heaters.

bobwny · Jan 12, 2016

i have two diesels with lower hose heaters on them,work fine.got mine at tractor supply,katz brand also.i can't remember the brand name before katz,but they were about identical.they last me about 5-7 years,then the electrical connectors corode off.been using them about 30 yrs.

Dave H (MI) · Jan 12, 2016

Is there a frost plug on the 300U engine? I looked at it the other day...couldn't seem to find one.

pete 23 · Jan 12, 2016

No frost plugs on that engine and lower radiator hose is difficult to fit a heater into. I would recommend a tank heater. You can plumb into block drain and temperature gauge fitting. About 1000 watt is plenty and be sure to bleed when filling, where it connects at top of head if intending to use it right away.

jeffcat · Jan 12, 2016

Last time I looked at my 300U the only place would be an in line down by the governor. Really tight area. There are no freeze plugs on these blocks anywhere that I know of. A tank type sounds good but I have not seen one hooked up on a 300U. Things are pretty dang tight on these puppys. I would guess you could do some fancy pipe work with copper fittings to get an inline type installed. Does somebody have some pictures? By the by, I fooled with a magnetic type once and it was ok but not what an inline could do.

Tim M in MN · Jan 12, 2016

I know it's not a utility, but my 300 had the tank heater plumbed to return to the thermostat housing. I have the hole plugged now but the former owner used it that way.

Janicholson · Jan 12, 2016

A fitting could be brazed into the water jacket cover plate for a in block heater. Or a 'T" could be screwed into the block drain and a tank type installed with the upper end 'T'ed into the bypass from the bottom of the WP to engine? Jim

Janicholson · Jan 12, 2016

This could work in the cover with a flange brazed to the steel. Jim
one type

Dave H (MI) · Jan 12, 2016

Do you mind me asking? Where is the water jacket cover plate and what does it look like?

Not sure I am up for that much of a job here in the dead of winter with my regular job ramping up toward a busy season. Currently, since it is in a nice dry garage, I am wondering if I just put the kerosene heater so it blasts heat on the engine for a half hour or so if that wouldn't be enough.

IAtractorKid · Jan 12, 2016

Most of them I see have tank heaters. Run from the block drain behind the carb up to a T at the temp gauge lead in the head.

AJB-830 · Jan 12, 2016

I haven a 300U with a loader like yours. When my dad bought the tractor in 1966, I added a tank heater. Like others said, I removed the drain plug and plumbed that to the inlet side of the heater. The heater outlet goes to a "T" where the temp gauge probe is. I plug it in for about an hour in cold weather and it starts like it was summer. I think the unit is about 1,000 watts. Still works good after 50 years of use. If you want a picture, let me know as I can take a couple of close ups. Al

PS: Did you ever get the hydro working on your 1660 combine?

Janicholson · Jan 12, 2016

Part #9 under carb. Jim
link to Engine parts pic

Tom Dowling · Jan 12, 2016

that kerosene heater will do it just be wary of getting the carb hot

Dave H (MI) · Jan 12, 2016

Thanks Jim. Doesn't show up real well in that diagram, I'll look at it when I get out there again and see if I can find it. Meanwhile, I think I'll run some heat in the garage and see can I warm up the place a little and get it running.

Dave H (MI) · Jan 12, 2016

Yes and yes! I would very much appreciate a picture! I would like to get a heater in this tractor because it is crazy useful around the place. I even spray my corn with it because it fits up the rows easily and handles the weight well. Right now it needs to move snow. So please, if you could!

The hydro issue on the 1660 combine was nothing. Another hose is leaking and it is going to be a chore to find which one because they are all wet. I have lots of drips and I have been replacing the hoses one at a time. I figured this out one afternoon when I changed the filter. The reservoir was down to about half with the head opposite of where it should be to read level. So I was warming her up while I topped off the reservoir. Looked like it needed about half a gallon by eye. But as I started pouring it in, it started to belch and when I was done it took about 2 gallons before it started to raise the level. Pumps just kept taking the fluid and burping out air. After that the hydro sounded a lot better and the front hydraulics came back to life. I need to spray those hoses down to clean them and find out which is the leaker, but did not feel safe using solvents back there while we were still harvesting. So that is on for Spring. Appreciate you asking.

AJB-830 · Jan 12, 2016

Dave, I will try to get out to the farm tomorrow and take a couple of pictures of the block heater for you. Glad to hear you have the 1660 back up and running. Al

AJB-830 · Jan 13, 2016

Dave, Attached are the pictures of the block heater on my IH 300 Utility. The 1st one shows how the input hose is connected to the drain plug on the left side of the block. Your local automotive store should have a hose connector that will screw into where you took the block plug out.

The 2nd picture shows how I put a "T" into the right side of the block where temperature gauge probe screws in. Again you should be able to get a hose adapter from an automotive store. A hardware store should have the 1/2 inch pipe "T" and nipple to screw into the block.

The 3rd picture shows a tank heater similar to the one on my 300 that I took off another tractor. Any automotive store should have similar heaters available. I think the one on the 300 is about 1,200 watts, but anything between 1,000 and 1,500 watts should work fine. Hope this helps. Al

Dave H (MI) · Jan 13, 2016

Great pictures, thanks a lot for posting them! I don't know how I would have known to do that without the pics. I have to go back out there on Friday to hang a new pantry door. My days off are few and far between starting this week but trying to keep one day a week open to do farm work. So...pardon me ignorance...that drain plug is going to the coolant right? So drain down the radiator to save the coolant before opening the plug and then plumb in the heater. Am I on the right track? Did you need to prime the heater or add coolant to it? I am assuming you must to keep it from burning out. I did that to a hose heater once...did not make me happy. Appreciate the help!

jeffcat · Jan 13, 2016

Came back to this latter in the day. Very cool how these tank heaters were hooked up. Simple as dirt if you see a picture. BRAVO!!

AJB-830 · Jan 13, 2016

Hi Dave, Yes I would first drain the radiator if you want to catch most of the coolant. Then open and remove the block drain plug behind the carb. Now since your tractor is 60 years old, that plug could be rusted tight. I don't remember if the 300 had just a pipe plug like the farmall H or a plug that you could open like on an older car radiator. Maybe try to loosen the plug even before you drain the coolant. If the plug won't come out, then maybe you will need to go to another option. We had an IH 93 combine that I couldn't get the drain plug out.

Then see if you can get the temperature probe to come loose. If both come loose, then drain the coolant. Some will still come out when you remove the block plug but that maybe hard to catch.

After you get your heater and all the parts installed, then I would add coolant to the radiator. When the radiator seems full, then loosen the hose going to the "T" at the temp probe. This should get the heater full and let any air out. Running the tractor would also purge any air out, but in your case you probably want to run the heater first.

Hopefully all this works out for you. The hard part will be to get the plug and temp probe out if they have been in for 60 years. Good luck. Al

Dave H (MI) · Jan 13, 2016

Sure do appreciate the help. I'm thinking a lot of people will find it interesting. Does look easy! No worries about the fittings...removing rusty threaded stuff is kinda a specialty around here.

300U block heater?

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