removeing radiator

What is the secret to getting the 2 bolts out of the bottem of the radiator on a H Farmall are thease regular bolts or studs
 
On all the ones I have done you have a long extension and be able to get a socket on. Yep not easy but can be done.
 
Turn the wheels slightly left and right so you can get a deep socket with a 12" extension straight up onto the bolts. Be sure to use a 6 point socket!!! When you put it back in, be sure to use anti-sieze so the bolts do not corrode in the threads. It you have an air ratchet, you can break the bolt loose and then use the air ratchet to turn the bolt out the rest of the way. Be sure to break it loose by hand first. I would not recommend an impact or you could twist off the bolt or tear out the threads which is the last thing you want to happen!!!
 
Have the cotter pins been removed? I always found that to be the hard part when they are rusted in.
 
Not sure if a 300 and H are the same but on my 300 they are studs and had a self-locking nut on them. In my case the nut came off of one side but on the other the nut was stuck good enough that the whole stud came out. I was told it is best not to remove the studs if you don't have to. Above the nut is a spring that holds the radiator down but allows for some flex as the radiator expands and contracts, I assume.
 
You might want to make or get some new pads for the radiator to sit on, after you get it fixed. I made mine out of some conveyor belting. It's about 3/8 of a inch thick.
 
Like others said, they are studs with nuts and cotter pins on them.

I think I put 3/8 fine thread locking nuts on mine.
 

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