Shifting problems, 1066 IHC

ridgelane

Member
Hi

I have a 1066 IHC tractor with manual transmission. When I moved the range lever from forward gear to get into reverse, something happened so that I can't get anything but a forward speed in low range.

If I do place the gear selector lever in neutral and the range lever in reverse, then shift into any gear, the engine dies. Otherwise I do have forward motion in low range, any gear.

Is this a linkage issue and if so, where do I look to find the fault?

I've tried finding something about this in past forums but there are so many to look at. I'm thinking this must have happened to at least a few IHC owners over the years.

Thanks for any help.
 
Sounds like you are locked in low range. Happens sometimes. There are two plates behind the right battery. Make sure the "slot" for the park
lock to come up through them is lined up. Will need a large screwdriver or small pry bar to "shift" the plates to get them back into neutral.
Always stop the tractor with the brakes and square the pattern when shifting from forward to reverse. Will minimize many shifting issues.
Linkage is getting worn on your 40 year old tractor.
 
Look below the park lever. They rotate side to side. I think it is the bottom one that you will need to turn with the pry bar. Make sure the tractor
can't roll when you shift it out of gear.
 
Your shifting problems are probable due to several factors . Lets start with woren linkage due to hard shifting that is the results of out of adjustment clutch , trans brake and dump valve . This leads to slam shifting and causes more ware and on to broken pieces and parts , So to fix - repair you start at the top at the shifters then move on down the linkage . Once you have that all tightened up then you move on to the top range cover , there you will more then likely find a missing spring and rollers woren detents , more broken rollers , might even find a broken shifting fork . Wore out top cover . Then oce you have spent enough money and time you have the whole shifter system fixed and repaired and THINK you have it all done , Nope now you learn how to adjust the clutch , trans brake and DUMP VALVE . Then and only then will it shift the way it is suppose to .
 
Great. I'll have a look at it today. Thanks again. I called two dealers and neither had any idea where the problem might be.
 
I just bought this tractor a month ago, looks like I bought troubles. Once I move the 500 bales I bought, its going to be for sale. I just want to get reverse so I can load trucks. Thanks
 
Well then if you don't want to fix it and that is what it will take since i can not see what all is going on as to what the problem is for sure . You could end up with more damage then you want . To fix it wright and you can get the parts ya need it would take me a good day to do it , don't work as fast as i use to . For me it is not that big of a deal once you see what all ya need . Now not tryen to tell ya how to farm but for loader work don't care how ya cut it nothing beats a older articulate loader as long as ya can find one that has good brakes. Or a skid steer . as fort fixen the 1066 it may cost ya close to four or five hundred in parts if everything is wore out , here again i am not there to touchy feely . i have fixed repaired many 06-66 shift linkages . My buddy and i handle round bales with two skid steers . We have one in the field and one where we store the hay . BUT the down side to this is the cost of two skidsteers where for the price of one good USED skid steer we should have bought two 2 yd loaders .
 
Can all these repairs be made without splitting the tractor?

I agree with you on using the older machines for getting the job done. I run over 300 head of cattle and the 1066 is my newest tractor. But, between the tractors I have, I don't even put 300 hours on them each year. Hard to justify expensive machinery for so few hours of use.
 
Yes they can . Now depending on how deep ya got to go to correct the problem is how difficult it will be for a FIRST TIMER . Where to start . At the top . Remove the right cowl cover and see how much slop you have on the as i call them CUB Cadet tie rod end . If they are sloppy then replace . Next look at the shifter and see how much slop is in the moving pieces in there and think of how to tighten that up , this can be done with some machinery washers ( may not be the correct way but it works. Then move on down the dash support and check out how much slop ya have in the clevises and headed pins , most times a new headed pin will remove a bunch. Next is where ya get into the more complicated work Removal of the range transmission top cover First ya have to block up the park lock where it goes into the top cover , you also have to block the tires as not the tractor can roll . You need to remove the side cover on the left side of the range transmission . IF the tractor hyd. oil level is where it should be and not five gallon over full you will loose one gallon if it is OVER FULL then your going to loose a lot more so check before you remove . This is the cover that has the CLIPPED corner . This give you access to the rev sliding gear and the rev. shifting fork . Now for a first timer on this repair it helps to have and extra set of hands. Unbolt the top cover and use a stiff bladed putty knife and drive it in between the main case and the cover due to the gskt being really stuck tight , you will probably have to do no less the two places if not all four corners . You want to come straight up and as you do the rev. shifter shaft will come out of the rev shifting fork , might be tight and requier a light tapping with a SMALL hammer Pay attention to how it was setting . Once the shaft comes out of the rev shifting fork it will fall out , not a big deal. Look it over for any ware or broken pieces. and if found replace with a good used one. Once the top cover is off start looking it over there should be a sping hooked to the3 detent arm (more then likely GONE ) you are probably missing some of the rollers . One should be on the hih low shifting fork still in the transmission it sets on the dowel on the top and that fits into the shifter cam of the top cover . Check and see how much slop is in the top cover where the two shifter shafts go thru . If they are sloppy they can be repaired by having machine shop bore them out and make a steel bushing and press it in , BUT the true center line of the org. bore must be maintained . Or you can spend money on a reproduction top cover . There are several after market companys that offer most of what you need to fix it like new . If you find that the high low shifting fork is broken don't panic you can replace it with out doing more major work . Once you have everything fixed tightened up and all your shifter rollers in place use two 3/8th x6 guide studs made from two old 3/8th's bolts with the heads removed and rounded . It is wise to run a tap down the bolt holes in the transmission case to clean out any rust or dirt . Then clean up the bolts with a wire brush . place the gskt over the two studs in opposite corners and again that extra pair of hands come into play once again . OH and one other thing here if this tractor has not been updated to the spring loaded part loc NOW IS THE TIME TO DO this and it is wise to do so for saftey sake . Lower the top cover down over the guide studes slowly making sure high low shifting fork is in Neutral and that the rev shifting fork is in place and also is in Neutral and the shifting shaft is going in like it should , yes they can be a pain in the drain but they will go in . . May take some light taps with a little bigger hammer . Once down put the cover back on the side and the bolts in and refill with oil . Then get ahold of me and i will tell you how to set the clutch up so that you r OLD 1066 will shift with two fingers.
 
Thank you for that run down. My older 1066 needs a clutch adjustment. It has hydraulic issues which I want to solve first.
 

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