Farmall h surging and other ????

I'm working on a 42 h. I just replaced the head gasket, water pump and thermostat. Runs great at idle and up 3/4 open then it starts surging really bad. I can watch the governor linkage move as it surges. I tried holding the gov lever to see if it helped but I'm not able to hold it. Any ideas? Could it be a linkage adjustment. I noticed the adjustment by the head that connects the hand throttle to the gov is screwed all the way down.

Also I removed the valve cover to retorque the head and noticed not a lot of oil on the head. So I started it up and watched oil is coming out of all the holes on the rocker arms but its just dribbling out. Is this right? Oil seems to flow over the rocker shaft and back to the pushrods but I don't see any getting over to the valves. It doesn't seem like the oil could flow over to the valves like it does to the pushrods. Any thoughts? Thanks

my M was doing that too.
found the governor was just worn out.
replaced it with a newer one and cured the problem.

If it ran ok before you had the head off loosen the 4 screws on the gov. tube, then first tighten the 2 at the carb side. Don't think your rocker arm oiling is a problem.

It surged before I did the head gasket. I will check the connection between the carb and governor.

try using a little choke and see if that helps at higher
rpm if it does your high idle jet is partially plugged ,
if not your governor needs attention.

An H Farmall has a completely enclosed governor linkage. (inside a casting and metal tube) What did you look at?
Adjust the mixture screw front bottom of carb to richen the mix (small increments of adjustment will be best, 1/3 to 1/2 turn.
The oil amount is perfect, it is metered not full pressure. Jim

I'm looking at the linkage on top of the head where the hand throttle attaches to the gov linkage. It has a spring on both sides of the threaded rod, mine is tightened all the way down. I will try the carb adjustment.

The throttle linkage is kinda wimpy at that point. If the governor control rod (on back of the governor, coming from that pivot assembly) is fully moved when the hand lever is all the way back, it is working OK. Jim

You may not need my H carb adjustment procedure, but you might;
Make sure the float isn?t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so the float doesn?t rub or touch. Pretty important.
Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
[Note a new float might already be set correctly.]

INITIAL settings are as follows to get the engine started;
Main fuel adjusting screw; big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture. [This screw adjusts fuel.]
Idle-air-mixture screw; smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner. [This screw adjusts air.]
Idle speed screw; faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages in the slot. [This screw adjusts RPM?s.]

FINAL settings are as follows;
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the small idle-air-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until engine idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the big main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)

Engine should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.

I tried adjusting the carb but it doesn't help, the main needle does not seem to make much difference when I turn it either way. I took the side cover off the governor and discovered the stop bolt for the high idle backed way out, I tightened it up like the manual specified and it helped a lot. It only surges now for a couple seconds at full throttle then straightens out, but now I cannot pull the hand throttle back into the last two notches. I think I read in the manual the high idle speed is 1850rpm, how I can check this? I wonder since someone in the past backed the screw out of the governor if maybe the engine is running too fast?

(quoted from post at 18:22:56 11/30/15)
I tried adjusting the carb but it doesn't help, the main needle does not seem to make much difference when I turn it either way. I took the side cover off the governor and discovered the stop bolt for the high idle backed way out, I tightened it up like the manual specified and it helped a lot. It only surges now for a couple seconds at full throttle then straightens out, but now I cannot pull the hand throttle back into the last two notches. I think I read in the manual the high idle speed is 1850rpm, how I can check this? I wonder since someone in the past backed the screw out of the governor if maybe the engine is running too fast?

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I checked all the governor adjustments per the manual and everything is good. I pulled all 4 plugs and they are bright white, look brand new so I'm assuming it is running lean. I have tried adjusting the carb but the main screw on the bottom does nothing, I can turn it all the way in or back it almost all the way out. I pulled the carb and took out the main screw, nut and packing. I'm thinking maybe someone has installed the wrong carb kit at one time because the main needle seems to short. When the screw is turned in and spring compressed it is not even close to contacting the jet in the carb. Wouldn't this cause it to run rich? Is the complete carb kit this site sells any good? Any tips to rebuilding this carb? Thanks