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560 Diesel Injectors

T

tallfarmboy

New User
Howdy! We've got a 1961 Farmall 560 Diesel in the shop now that a student is working on restoring. His tractor starts terribly, loads up with fuel, smokes at idle, although it does run smooth. We had someone bench test the 6 injectors and all were bad... What would you all do in regards to getting them fixed? Abilene Machine has rebuilt injectors for sale... But $165 per injector seems steep. Is there any place that we can ship these injectors to (or maybe somewhere close to SW Missouri) to get rebuilt?
Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
Jared Jeffries
Jasper FFA Advisor
Jasper, MO
 
Shop around. If you're on a budget, there are places you can get them around 100. Abilene has a good reputation though. I believe there are two injectors these could have had. I don't recall the breakdown or if it was for the later head as found on 706's, etc..
 
These are the later style (lower breaking pressure and smaller hardware)... 9/16" wrench on the fuel line.
The person who tested them said they were all opening around 900 psi and they should "squeal" before the break, but these didn't??

900 psi seems low. I've seen places say that the later style ones were 1000 psi and some that said they should be 1200 psi. Can anyone verify those numbers?

Thank you all!

JJ
 
From my IT book
Late
Opening pressure new......950-1050 psi
Opening pressure used (minimum)....850 psi
Nozzles should not leak at 700 psi for 10 seconds.
 
Who ever tested them has to be familiar with how those nozzles work. I had a shop bring in a set one time claiming they were all bad. I had a heck of a time convincing them they were fine. You have to bump, slam test them for proper spray pattern and leakage. If you just slowly pump them up they will squirt out like an oil can. That is a very good nozzle. Sure they wear out but the best test is to look at the tip and it should be flush or very slightly inverted. If it is down in a ways it is shot. They are adjustable for lift with different sized buttons and are tested with a dial indicator for lift. If it runs good after warmed up, it is not nozzles. No way.
 
That tractor has the light load advance type injection pump, which if not working right can cause smoke trouble too. If the injector has the 9/16 wrench size on the tube it's made by IH, the early injectors had 3/4 wrench tubes were made with American Bosch valves which are no longer available. Most critical thing about either valve is seat leakage. A lot of good injectors are failed by working the poptester handle too slow. Best to find where the opening pressure is, bring the pressure up to about 100 PSI below, then with the other hand quickly bump the handle. It should chatter then if OK, and that's more like how the pump works too. Has the static timing been rechecked? That's critical also.
 
On the ford forum there is a man that goes by pumpman Al or something close he is further north but will ship and seemed fair and honest with me , but I use my local man on all of my ih tractor pumps and injectors as I feel he as near perfect as I can find , he worked on these when the tractors were new and is still in business with a good reputation locally .
 
Timing hasn't been looked at or adjusted. I don't think this tractor has been touched hardly. Has just under 4,000 hours. Our first step was going to be to make sure the injectors were healthy, then if we were still having running issues, pop the valve covers, check valves, pull the head, check for cracks or head gasket issues.. THEN, worse case scenario would be to re-sleeve and do an in-frame overhaul.

I will check with the guy who tested the injectors and see if they knew what they were doing.

Thank you all for the help. It is greatly appreciated.

Mr. J
 
Thanks for the information. Even when warm, despite it running smooth, it has a light haze of smoke at idle and high idle.
 
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