560 Tel-a-depth valve

JRSutton · Sep 28, 2015

My 560 has the tel-a-depth system still in place - complete with the trashed gears in the control valve.

After reading around a bit, sounds like I could live just as happily with a "normal" valve in place of the tel-a-depth valve, and not worry about little gears, linkages, and timing, etc.

But what I don't know is - can I still use the steel lines that run back under the seat. These lines mount to the top of the tel-a-depth valve, and I'm unclear on whether or not the bolt/port pattern is the same on all of the valves - or exactly how all that works.

I just can't see in there clearly enough to figure out how the whole assembly goes together.

I would prefer to keep the other two valves open for other purposes - and have this new replacement valve dedicated to the fast hitch, and I'd prefer to do that using the current steel lines to the back of the seat.

Is this a no-brainer, it just fits kinda deal? Or will I need to do some creative plumbing?

bmagee · Sep 28, 2015

JR,

I had the same issue with my 460. I even spent alot to have the old valve re-built, but I never could get adjusted properly.

What I did was exactly what you are thinking of doing and replace tele-depth valve with another standard valve like the other two (2). the metal lines will bolt right up and you are good to go.

Then for the auto stop on the cylinder for the hitch, I took a hitch cylinder like from a 400 and used the top off of it and put on my cylinder. I then went to CASEIH and bought the adjustable stop. when the relief button hits the stop, it shuts off oil and the cylinder and hitch will stop.

I have pictures if you need them. probably a silly statement, but make sure and get all new O-rings for between the valves. I believe you will need 12.

pete 23 · Sep 28, 2015

The other two valves are identical so will work off a 560. Actually all the valves way back to the 300 & 400 are the same with the exception of some having an extended stem to change from single to double action. Like I said , maybe in some applications they may be blind on one side , no ports. You may want to do some work on the lever that controls the valve. The one for teledepth has a friction disc mechanism and will work, just not as well as the free moving one used on a tractor that had three valves but no fast hitch.

JRSutton · Sep 29, 2015

Thanks - this feels like a job I'll only want to do once, so I'll definitely be using new o-
rings! Doesn't look all that difficult to do - just difficult to get to with the dash and
steering wheel on top of it all.

I'm a little confused by the auto stop - I don't do a lot with hydraulics, so I'm not to sure
exactly how that'd work. Do you use that to keep the hitch at a pre-determined height?

I like the concept of the adjustable hitch (at least in the current setup with the teledepth -
I share a lot of equipment with other tractors, and I have to do a LOT of random height
adjusting on equipment to hitch up. Would be nice if I could just raise and lower the drawbar
a bit instead.

Point being, I'm not sure I'd want a set height that it'd stop at all the time. Unless there's
some other advantage to doing that.

Thanks for you help.

I'll add my email address here if you'd rather email pictures.

If you get a chance, pictures could help.

bmagee · Sep 29, 2015

tleake · Sep 30, 2015

I have a 58Lp 460 without teledepth, 59 diesel 460 with teledepth and a 60 with teledepth and all 3 seem to have the same top port valve in them. It appears that way anyway. I'd imagine the 560 would be of a similar design.

tleake · Sep 30, 2015

they are different, you will need to replace the left valve with a left valve, if that is what you are asking, as fa as I can tell

pete 23 · Sep 30, 2015

I think you are referring to the original teledepth valve which is indeed different. He wants to get rid of that valve and use a regular valve and many have done that. The only thing I was referring to for him to watch was to make sure the outlets were on both sides of the valve as some early valves used on the inside of a 300 or 400 tractor may not have outlets on the side he needs it on which would be the top in the normal mounting position on a 560. On a 400 for instance the pipes come off the back side for the outlets that go to rear of tractor and might not have outlets on front side.

JRSutton · Sep 30, 2015

Correct Pete - I want to replace the left hand tel-a-depth valve with a valve like the other two (which have the single/double selector sticking out the front).

Now that I look at more pictures - is there a way to just swap out the "guts" from one of them - right from the from the front (which is easily accessible) - so I don't have to pull out the whole valve itself???

Sorry - I'm probably asking stupid questions here, but it's just not obvious to me yet.

JRSutton · Sep 30, 2015

actually I'm assuming not now that I think about it - the teledepth valve has the extra linkage on the side for the feedback from the cylinder - I'm sure it's probably very different inside.

JRSutton · Sep 30, 2015

AH - that makes MUCH more sense to me now - I thought you were saying the stop valve was an extra part - I didn't realize you meant it was integrated into the cylinder like that.

I get it now.

Thanks

bmagee · Sep 30, 2015

I may be miss-speaking, but I don't think so. You cannot change out just the guts. The tele-depth is a totally different valve. You just need another valve identical to the other two (2) and you are good to go. You will have to remove all the valves. not a big deal. especially after you have had them apart as many times as I have..... I took (2) pieces of all-thread, the same threads and length as the long bolts that hold them all together. I double-nutted them and ran them thru the left side or opposite the bolts. I removed the bottom bolts to to this and then slid them on and off. Worked well.

If you need more pics, let me know.

JRSutton · Oct 1, 2015

I have extra valves on the way - bought on ebay. They were cheap so I got some to play with.

The big foggy area for me at the moment is how to get them out.

I'm sure the situation will explain itself once I get out and start removing parts -

But a the moment, I'm just curious.

Do I have to pull the whole top off? the dash/steering wheel support casting? Do I have to pull out the whole valve mount assembly? Or is there an easier way to just pluck out each valve without a lot of digging?

Just looking for a general description to know what I'll be up against.

bmagee · Oct 1, 2015

email is open - email me

Clayton560 · Aug 18, 2022

bmagee, if you still have them can you e-mail me pictures to [email protected]. I am going to try to get rid of the Tel A Depth valve.

Thanks

560 Tel-a-depth valve

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