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Farmall 450 Gas Brake issue

T

Tony_Idaho

Member
Hello,
I was hoping I could get some advice on my Brake issue. Originaly, I took both brakes apart and just cleaned them both. The brake boots were missing so neadless to say there was a lot of crud and insect homes inside. everything looked to be in rather good shape, even the pads. A few of the balls were a little rusted so I polished them up, the little springs all looked good.

Now when I use the brakes, it seems that I really need to push hard for the breaks to engage and once it does it REALLY engages fast and locks the tires. Once I release the breaks it lets go, I just wish I could get the brakes to work more smoothly and evenly.

Any suggestions. I don't mind taking everything apart again and fix, but just don't know what to be looking for. Do the balls, or springs ever go bad? Do I need to lube the balls with something, I am afraid too since they are the brakes...?

Thanks
Tony
 
Common problem with these.

Yea,a LITTLE lube on eack of the balls will help MUCH,but if they are pitted at all,I would replace. I put new chrome plated ones in mine and it was ALL the difference!

Probably stupid question,but did you clean the grooves in the seperator plates really good with sandpaper/wire brush wheel??


Also,lastly,sand the surface of the plates where the brake disc hit with 220 grit.Sand ACROSS the surface,NOT in a circular motion around it.You might slightly scuff up your brake disc too.BARELY rough them up.

It will stop %200 better afterward.
 
Wanna add a couple of things to what I said below.

Check the "teeth" in the pinion shafts where the disc ride on,Clean them good with a wire brush wheel.If the teeth show ALOT of wear where the disc ride,you might want to take a small die grinder and work the edges off where the disc slide back and fourth.

Also,make sure the linkage isnt binding from the actuators to where the yoke pins on them.
 
Thanks, I was thinking about just getting six new balls, the price isn't too bad on e-bay. If you are talking about the grooves the balls sit in, I did clean them up as much as I could with a wire brush. Probably could use a drill wire brush to make it 100% smooth and clean. Will try that once I take them off.

I did not use any sand paper on anything, always worried about getting sand in places it shouldn't be. But I will try that also.

Thanks for the input
Tony
 
A couple additions to Mike1972chev's excellent suggestions:

THOROUGHLY clean (wire brush) the brake shaft splines and the friction disk female splines. If there's any burrs on the splines carefully file them smooth. Before reassembling lightly lube the splines with motor oil or light grease (apply lube sparingly on then wipe off as much as you can with an old towel - you want to leave just a film).

Also clean (wire brush or sandpaper) the areas where the center disk anchor dogs bear on the covers. Then lightly lube as above before assembly.
 
The best lube seems to be dry graphite made into a paste with a small amount of oil, smear on lightly all metal to metal contact spots, the other posts are good also, this is a very common maintenance item, be prepared to do it regularly.
 
If those ramps are badly pitted a wire wheel won't help much. You need and 80 grit oxide cylinder sanding wheel in your hi speed drill to smooth them up.
Touch the balls up by hand with some 220 WD paper.
 
Tony - After you get the brakes fixed here's something that will help keep them working.

Each time you use the tractor, "exercise" the brakes: Hit the brakes HARD while rolling slowly forward, then again while traveling in reverse. Repeat 2 or 3 times.

This rocks the brake center disk assemblies inside the housings and helps keep them from sticking - especially if the tractor sits for long periods outdoors.
 
I cleaned mine up and they stop wonderfully. but they lock on and stay on when releasing the pedal. Have to back up to get them to release. The brake spline shaft has a groove wore in it and I think there is where the problem is.
 
WIth the brake adjuster loose (not pulling the small links inside) the space between the outer housing and the stack of disks and the expander should be less than .060" and more than .030" If it is more like .100+ it will not be happy scuffing or cleaning or springs will not make it stop well. To tighten it up, material must be removed from the housing where it meets the tractor by machining it off.
Measure the stack with a depth gauge on a caliper.
then measure the depth of the housing to the wear surface from the mount flange. Jim
 
Thanks for adding that part Jim !;) I was kind of "spotty" in giving the FULL details on this! There is ALOT of things that should be checked for optimum performance!


Tony_Idaho,Jim(AKA:"Janicholson")is the one who originally helped me with my Super M brake issues(SAME brakes.) He is the "Wise Owl" of the IH forum,in MY opinion. ;)
 
Yes Mike1972chev, I know of Jim. He has helped quite a bit, as I have been slowly repairing my Farmall for actual farm work. I always respect what he has to say, as well as all the other great guys out there willing to help out a newbie like me.

Should be getting my new 12v light switch this afternoon and will start going after that hopefully tonight after work. If I need help with that I will definately call on you guys again.

So a thanks goes out to all out you guys!!!

Tony
 
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