Steering problems in crawlers are just about never just "simple adjustments."
With the 350. When you pull back on the steering lever . . . first it decluthes (dis-engages power to the track) and then second . . . it activates a brake as you pull further.
You've got to figure what your problem is. Is there is power to the track all the time - or it is just not braking?
If you run the crawler up a steep incline in 1st gear and then slowly pull back both levers - there should be a point where gravity will let the crawler roll backwards down the hill - even though it's in 1st gear forward and the foot clutch is "up." If it won't roll backwards - it's not declutching. If it DOES roll - then pull back the levers all the way and see if it then stops like you just hit the brakes - because you just DID hit the brakes.
In most cases - there dry-clutch crawlers have stuck or slipping clutch disks AND bad brake bands. On top of that -they often have rusted-stuck linkage.
To test the linkage - hold your foot down hard on the foot-brake pedal and then try to move the right steering clutch lever back and forth. If it won't more without making the brake pedal move with it - it's stuck.
9-10 times from what I've seen - if an owner says "it just needs a simple adjustment" . . . you can bet it needs MUCH more then that. Often $1000s more worth of work unless you do all the repairs yourself and then still - not cheap.
I guess that's one nice thing about Oliver Cletrac and Case 310 and 350 crawlers. No steering clutches at all. Brake bands yes - but they ride in oil and cannot rust.