Rough idle after roosa master DB reseal, case 207D LJD??

mikefromcny · Apr 14, 2012

Long story short, My case 585c forklift started running rough after the gov. dampening ring started to fail, pulled the check valve at the top of the housing, made no difference, other then it wouldnt stall once in a while.

Pulled the db pump, upgraded to the solid part, replaced o rings etc.

Runs perfect above 1/4 throttle. Still runs a little rough from idle up to 1/4 throttle. Anything I should check, or anything I could have over looked? Pump was packed full of the the old dampening ring, Made sure I got everything before reassembly.

I can live with it how it is now, but its aggravating after all the work it took to do the pump.

John Demaris, Could you send me your email? Tried to send you one earlier this week but I might of had your old one. [email protected] Thank you.

Dieseltech · Apr 14, 2012

Was new retainer timing line marked at correct location on degree tool per spec sheet, if off 1 degree will be 2 at crankshaft. If not sure can try shifting timing to see if it likes either advanced or retarded change. Was housing return valve either cleaned or replaced, if old one is on with ball knocked out advance will start to move earlier with no housing pressure.

mikefromcny · Apr 14, 2012

I did mark new retainer in reference to the old one. Would it still run if 180 degrees off? I doubt it could be since it runs as good as it does.

I still have a "punched out" check valve on the housing cover. I thought I could clean out my old one as I punched out a check valve from a spare pump. I will buy a new check valve and try that. Thanks!

LJD · Apr 15, 2012

It won't run 180 degrees off. The fitting with the ball and spring is the housing-pressure-regulator-valve. Not just a fuel check valve. New one costs $7. It maintains internal housing pressure at around 5-6 PSI. Running without it would make the auto timing advance cut in a little earlier. I doubt it's your problem. But . . have you checked the timing advance? To do so, you need a $10 plastic timing window. Maybe you can borrow from a Deere mechanic?

mikefromcny · Apr 17, 2012

Dont own the timing window tool, dont know anyone that does either.

LJD, Do you have a list of "must haves" for resealing the roosa masters? I have another I'll eventually have to do on my JD 350 and just looked at a real sorry looking 3010. A friends father has a stalling waukesha in a 1655 that might become my problem.

Does US diesel sell the specialty tools? if so I need to buy enough to meet the $50 minimum.

I could use the timing window tool, umbrella shaft seal compressor, the "bristol wrench" Any others I should have? Parts numbers would be be real helpful too. Thanks.

LJD · Apr 18, 2012

thompson was selling all those tools at half-price. They may not have much left now. Me and my son stocked up on a lot of spares.

The plastic timing window that Deere used to sell - Standyne #13366 was selling for $7.

http://www.thompsondiesel.com/Stanadyne.htm

DB timing window - #13366
DB umbrella seal compressor - #13371
DB Wrench for taking out head-screw #15499

Wrench for taking out head-screw #15499 Six teeth, roughly 5/16" on the OD of the splines (.312”), and 1/4" on the ID. Or 8 mm OD and 6.3 MM ID.
Torx T-45 measures .306” OD.
CAN USE 24992 in place of 15499

Rough idle after roosa master DB reseal, case 207D LJD??

mikefromcny

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Dieseltech

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mikefromcny

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LJD

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mikefromcny

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LJD

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