I did mark new retainer in reference to the old one. Would it still run if 180 degrees off? I doubt it could be since it runs as good as it does.
I still have a "punched out" check valve on the housing cover. I thought I could clean out my old one as I punched out a check valve from a spare pump. I will buy a new check valve and try that. Thanks!
Re: Rough idle after roosa master DB reseal, case 207D LJD?? in reply to mikefromcny, 04-14-2012 20:47:27
It won't run 180 degrees off. The fitting with the ball and spring is the housing-pressure-regulator-valve. Not just a fuel check valve. New one costs $7. It maintains internal housing pressure at around 5-6 PSI. Running without it would make the auto timing advance cut in a little earlier. I doubt it's your problem. But . . have you checked the timing advance? To do so, you need a $10 plastic timing window. Maybe you can borrow from a Deere mechanic?
Re: Rough idle after roosa master DB reseal, case 207D LJD?? in reply to LJD, 04-15-2012 05:54:16
Dont own the timing window tool, dont know anyone that does either. LJD, Do you have a list of "must haves" for resealing the roosa masters? I have another I'll eventually have to do on my JD 350 and just looked at a real sorry looking 3010. A friends father has a stalling waukesha in a 1655 that might become my problem.
Does US diesel sell the specialty tools? if so I need to buy enough to meet the $50 minimum.
I could use the timing window tool, umbrella shaft seal compressor, the "bristol wrench" Any others I should have? Parts numbers would be be real helpful too. Thanks.
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