Fiat Allis dozer help

I am looking at buying a fiat allis dozer and need some help with getting information on it. This is what I have: The numbers on the data plate are 10CIT 112547, enging number on data plate is 8365/05. This is all I have on it, I was wanting to know if anyone knows the year and any other information on it, it currently has a steering issue, it will not steer left or right, and I am needing a parts and service manual if possible. thank you

tr9718
Sounds like trouble to me, I hope you have deep pockets!
I will suggest you keep looking!
Brian

TR9718

You're looking at a Fiat Allis 10 which comes out of the Fiat stable. Your serial is somewhat later than ours, and I'd guess it will be a 10B which is basically a 110 horsepower 10 wound up another 100 rpm to 120. The engine should be a Fiat OM CP3 which was also used in some NH wheel tractors. I think the #8365 is engine number and the 05 tells whether it was on a direct drive (which is powershift with a hi/lo manual shift or a 3-speed F & R torque converter setup. My part book doesn't cover 10B's.

10C's went to 130 hp and a different engine I think.

If a 10B it should have a 6 lower 2 carrier roller track frame, as did the loader and was an option on 10"s.

With the steering problem you describe, you need to check the hydraulic system that runs the brakes and clutches. It takes oil from the crown wheel case to a pump at the bottom rear of the torque converter housing. And if it isn't working you won't steer. And (on a 10) if the pump leaks at the front seal you can take oil from the converter housing and dump it in the crown wheel case. From memory 10B's have a somewhat different pump arrangement - can check the workshop manual if you need more.

We've found ours to be a very competent dozer. Bought used, track system rebuilt and around 2000 hours with little trouble. And the scars say it had a rough early life.

Parts (Australia) are via parallel importers, with supply from Italy if needed in a week.

I was warned that there is a head gasket issue. Italian wet sleeve technique in these (and earlier Alfa cars) doesn't have block metal around the top of the liners. Meaning a lot of gasket is in coolant. Which eventually goes through the metal, into the gasket filler and then through the fire rings. We've just had this, gasket set inexpensive, easy to fit and took 15 years of probably indifferent coolant.

For manuals I think one of our suppliers might be able to help - I'll watch here.

Thank you for the information on this, it has 2 upper rollers and 6 lower, everything on this old dozer words good except the steering, do you have a diagram of the steering hydrolics by chance? and how much would the service manual cost? If I can get the steering on this working then I will buy it. If you need any other information please let me know and thank you very much for your time and help with this.

Ty Rogers

Ty,

A quick reply. I have a service manual and it has flow diagrams etc. Not sure how to get them to you. Email?

A quick check of the brake and clutch side - with engine running the brake pedals should pulsate when pressed down hard.

Ty,

Our FA 10 has been parked till things dry out and I haven't needed to study the manuals lately. One of our neighbours is in the dozer fixing game and drilled into me "do it right and then it is reliable". Apart from two idiocyncrasies that are not in the manual and will have to wait till I split tracks next we have had a push button dozer for around 2000 hours. In which time it's part time operation has earned around three times it's cost and repairs.


Our recent efforts have been reactivating an Allis 45 grader (some posts here, some more to come).

Back to your FA 10.

There are two filters in the clutch/brake circuit. One is in the bevel gear housing and is a replaceable element, which has a bypass. So that is not a direct problem in this troubleshoot.

The other one is low on the front left side of the rear assembly. You have to take out the floor plate to get there. And it seems not to have a bypass. So if that is choked - - . Then you better find the other transmission filters as well and check them.

Assuming you're looking at a 10B the pump for this circuit is the back one of the double pump on the right hand side bottom of the converter/clutch housing.

In the 10's it was the single pump on the left hand side. Which, when the front seal wore, would dump transmission oil back into the bevel gear housing. Been there, done that. But a new pump is inexpensive so we watch now.

Accesability in this area isn't wide open spaces but is enough when you drop the transmission shield.

Another warning - you get at the alternator by taking out the radiator. Which is guaranteed to horrify anyone who took out the radiator of earlier US type dozers. Courage! Get the front guard off (ours is a me-production that needs four pins pulled) and then four bolts and two hoses (you need to drop the engine guard to get the bottom one) and the automotive style radiator lifts out. Takes about 20 minutes.

Um! And tighten any radiator hose clamps you see while it is out.

Ian

Thank you so much for the information and help, I am going to try and take a looking at this in a few days to see if it is worth the trouble and time to mess with if I could get the hydrolic diagram that would be great. My e-mail is [email protected]

Thank you once again

Ty