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Backhoe Controls -- Please Inform Me !

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Considering a Case or Deere backhoe. I am not clear on how the controls are set up on each backhoe? Can you please explain.

Which one do you prefer?

Thank You.
 
Seems most people prefer what they are used to. Not because one setup is better or worse. Also, some hoes are "convertible" and available with several stick setups.

I've got six backhoes and each one has different controls. It drives me nuts. But, the Deere joy-stick is what I grew up on and therefore I prefer it. The Case 580CK has separate sticks and foot-pedal swing. Ford 4000 has separate sticks in an odd-ball order. Pettibone Multihoe has separate sticks that seem to almost "come natural." IH 3414 almost the same.

The worst for me is the Ford 4000 with 723 backhoe. I have to think hard every time I reach for a stick and I never get used to it - even if I run it all day. But . . . my neighbor who owned it before me and had it since new in 1963? He loves it.

I'm also not crazy about hydraulic diverter valves. The Ford has one, so you can use either the front loader or the hoe, but not both. The IH 3414 with 3121 backhoe also has one that switches from "power steering" to backhoe "swing and stabilizers."
 
to each their own but if the joystick on a JD backhoe is the same as on my 350B you can have it...mite just be me but i swear that POS moves by itself...i'm forever tiltin blade when i dont want to.
 
Are you comparing the hoe one-stick control to the T-handle conrtol for a Deere 6-way dozer? If so, they have little to do with each other. That T-handle control for the dozer has an incredible mess of linkage. Works very well when new and tight, and when worn - can be awful and very hard to fix.
 
thats why i said IF...wasnt sure if they were the same or not...mine is the perfect example of wore out...i've rebolted/shimmed/tightened and it still has slack...dozers back in the shop for that left steering clutch/brake seal AGAIN...luckily the guy workin on it stands behind his work...this is try number 3.
 
I used to work for a Case Dlr, and there is a conversion kit to put Deere Joysticks on Case hoes ...I did a bunch of them. There's one for the Ford pattern too , but wasn't real popular ...
 
I used to have to go out and rebuild those things. Deere had a repair kit that contained an incredible amount of small parts and linkage. It got very expensive and probably isn't even available anymore.

If your seals keep leaking oil into your steering clutch housing, your ring-gear assembly is probably loose and needs to be tightened up.
 
i went by there yesterday and his helper said the seal on the finals shaft was tore up again...they tore final down and put new bearings in first time it was in shop...its been leaking slightly ever since i had dozer...he swears it aint coming from differential seal but i told him to change it this time anyhow...is the ring gear youre refering to in the differential?
 
Yes if this was a car, pickup truck, or Cletrac or Case crawler, but there IS no differential in a Deere crawler. It's just a ring and pinion locked to both final drives with splined shafts - no differential gears.

Oil can leak from either side, i.e. from the inside of the transmission/ring gear area, or the outside from the final drive. With either, seals don't get "tore up" unless a shaft is wobbling inside of them. Your problem is likely a loose final drive input shaft, a loose ring gear carrier, etc.
 
i gotcha...just call it a diff cause i dont know JD name for part and my manuals are with dozer...i hope he checked for play...guy doing work this time is the shop owner...kid he had working for him is finally gone...last time it was in for same leak that kid took a sledge hammer to final case to break it loose from dowels...beat hell outta the mounting boss for drawbar...i told kid next time i saw him near my dozer with that sledge it was gonna be a suppository.
 
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