New question on Dozer pads

We were looking at some new Berco dozer pads for our OC46,as the old ones are worn, bent and a couple are loose(rivets). So found some the right width & length,but with different mounting holes. Has anyone done any metal work with Boron Steel Shoes? IE welding up the mounting holes,and redrilling new. I looked at some Cobalt,tungsten,and even Diamond coated drill bits.So far it's a guess,lubricating the bit is a must. I know it's possible,but a plasma cutter, or acetelyne torch is out of the question cause I dont want to take the temper out of the steel,plus getting the holes the right diameter by hand is a little hard.Re welding the holes will have to be done in slow steps,a little here and there,let it cool and reweld over.Granted buying used will work, but in our case most of them are either worn pads and or pins and bushings,so this way we can have new pads with no worry about wearing them down. Was just curious if anyone has tried this and had a easy way to do it (drilling). I know making a pattern from the old shoe and transfering it onto the new for bolt location. Thanks for any pertinate info.Reguards,
Victor & LOU

I've done many with a torch and it was never a problem. You can cut the hole very fast with the correct tip and the pad does not get overheated. I rough the holes and finish with a die-grinder. But, that's when only a few are needed.

I've also done it with drills and spot-annealing, but it was still hard on my bits.

I have pads, but not sure if they're something that will suit your purpose or not. I forget if you need flat or grouser, and width?

Also, I know MacFadddens in Sharon Springs, New York has many old Oliver tracks in his tractor junkyard. He's not cheap though, but it might be worth asking him for a price. He's also bought up a lot of dealer stock from Oliver-Cletrac dealers. One problem I find though, is very often when I call them they say they don't have what I need (when I know they do). But I'm only 20 miles away, so when told "no", I just drive over and find it myself.

http://www.macfaddens.com/

In regard to welding, you ought to ask Berco, since many of the alloys are much different now then what was used in the past. That's one of the reasons why many undercarriage parts cannot be built up with weld anymore.

Are there any places near you that make cutting edges? Another place to try is a steel fabrication shop. An ironworker could punch the holes where you need them. I don't know if the pads themselfs are boron steel. Ice lugs and grousers are welded on to pads all the time. If you're not in a big hurry, you could probably order the pads with the hole pattern you want. An annular cutter, maybe carbide tipped, would probably drill them a lot easier than a drill bit. Annular cutters are usually used with magnetic drill presses. I don't think a torch or plasma cutter would hurt them at all but it would be hard to get a perfect hole. Dave

Thanks 135Fan, JDemarris,
135 fan, I never thought of an iron worker, I"ll have to check around and see, there used to be one in Rice Lake,made cutting edges for dump truck snowplows,but back then was kinda hard to deal with,been awhile,but maybe time has changed.

Jde, thanks for the information,as for torch cutting,I myself am good for just blowing off parts,rough cutting and brazing, as for cutting holes,I can,but they aren"t pretty.It seem to me to take too long to get the piece hot enough to blow through it,but maybe I"m doing something wrong.
I know what you mean by dealing with dealers,as they say either they have them and don"t or they say they don"t have the parts and do.NO win situation.I can get used,but have to depend on the dealer for their estimation of what percentage of usable life is left in.So(the way I figure) if we go new,I know atleast I have 100% track pad.Maybe wrong way of thinking,but that way I"m safe.
I really do appreciate your help, as you have probably done more than you care to remember LOL.
Thank you for the offer of the pads you have on hand,it is really appreciated,but I"ll probably need an entire set,(62) and the shipping would cost about what they want for new,and will take away from what you would need if you lose one or more.The ones we have are 6 1/4 wide by 12"long with whats left of a single grouser,but they look like they have been run over boulders on the edges,some are missing corners on the flat plate,bent down,where they rub edges,putting extra stress on the pads.Probably could straighten them,but will definately take the temper out.I don"t want to try pressing them flat,afraid of busting and schrapnel pieces.
They are also getting pretty thin,we could use them,but since we are this far,why not have something we can use,without playing 62 pickup with broken pads and pieces,LOL.
Berco says,according to their site,that welding on their shoes(with between 3-5% Boron content) is capable,as long as you do it in short steps.Almost like tack welding.I figured on ordering just one pad and try to weld, drill, cut,grind,cuss (not particularly in that order) to see how bad it will be.That way,maybe we can find a way to do 252 holes (keep an extra on hand). If you have any more ideas to make this easier,all suggestions are definately helpful.
Warmest reguards,
Victor & LOU

My engineer can punch steel better than 1/2" thick...but I'm unsure if pads lend themselves to punching.
Other option is to quote bolt hole pattern to a track supplier & see what he comes up with.
Maybe Heavyquip or an aftermarket supplier can help.
Try John @ General Gear too.
Good luck.

How do you think they put the holes in from the factory? How do they put square holes in grader blades and cutting edges? I don't think the little Cletrac will need very big holes. Dave

can you order the pads with no holes? Then take them to a machine shop and have them press out new ones. Probably cost a bit more but at least you have brand new pads.
That's what i would do. I live in rural northern ontario and i know of three shops nearby that can do work like that (they often do because town is so far away). Best of luck man!

Lou if I had some way to contact you > I may just have found you a complete set of pads.
E-mail me back a e-mail or phone number and I will give you the guys info. Jerry

Our email is open.Thanks
LOU & Victor

I bet that some of that is done before the hardening process (but cannot say for sure).

I'd be 99% sure that it's done before hardening. Cat stuff at least was case hardened, and it wasn't poor steel to start with. It's probably near the punching limit before hardening. Afterwards I think you could just as well forget punching...
Torch or plasma would be the best options if the pads were not salvagable.
I'd wonder if they couldn't be saved with the addition of new grouser bar?

Rod

Maybe, but if they are hard steel to begin with they are still punched. I know you can have them custom punched. Stainless steel is hard and can be punched but the capacity is lower than for mild steel. Maybe they have to be spot heated where they're punched? A cutting edge supplier/OEM should know for sure. Dave

Your most probably right. Hardening seems to be the last process after holes are made. Got one Plate comming so we will experiment on that before we go to the expense of ordering the 62 pads.Gonna take a special drill bit to cut through the Boron. Wish us luck. Reguards Victor.

Rod, Thanks for the reply. Gouser bars isn't the problem with the pads. They (pads)are most worn out, edges folded downward. some broken, back edges(missing material) you name it, it will be the description of what we have on it now. To top it off,size matters due to the bucket arms down the side next to the tracks. Want to stay with the 12" pads.Hard to find that are DECENT.The O.C. 46 is a 1965 year,and another reason why good ones are difficult to get. Were still a ways off before we have to get into the tracks, but we are narrowing the re work down.
Reguards LOU& VICTOR.

A JD 350/355 loader uses 12" pads. Dave

I was looking on the net and came across a site for Cleveland Punch and die. With the right punch and lubricant, grader blades and even armour plate can be punched, so I think track pads would qualify. You'd want to use a better quality punch than for mild steel though. Hope this helps. Dave

you can drill them. low and slow. low feed rate slow speed use a carbide or BN bit and keep it cool. You'll be surprised how easy they will drill

I've used the cobalt drill bits on dozer parts and they do work.
Just go slow speed and lubricant.