Old Cat dozer?

Hi, I've never posted on this forum before. Usually on the combine page.

Anyway, I've been thinking about looking for an older Cat dozer for use and also collector value.

I've got a smaller grove that I plan to take down someday; and also a property with about 40 acres of woods between a couple lakes. Eventually plan to make a road out there and just would have use for a dozer now and then.

I know it would probably be cheaper to just hire what I need done, but that's not really the issue.

Just like to tinker with that sort of stuff, and when I have an idea I like to do it myself.

So anyway what would be a good older Cat to look for. Want to stay with the Cat brand. Thinking D4, but wouldn't be scared of a D8 either.

What are some things to look for? What years were signifigant improvements made?

I'm familiar with running and hauling bigger equipment, as my passion is collecting old combines; so size doesn't scare me. Just like to get informed before doing something.

Thanks, Brad

If size doesn't scare you, Cat parts prices will! If you want to be doing clearing, I'd say you should look for a D6 and up. A D5 maybe but they aren't as common. There have been continual improvements done over the years. Some good, some not so good. All the new machines you might as well forget about trying to fix them yourself. What's your budget? I think most D6's and D7's were pretty good machines in their time. D8's too but real expensive to fix due to their size. Cats can be real money pits. Before you buy anything, find a good Cat mechanic and pay him to look at anything you're considering. There are several Cat specialists on this forum that can tell you a lot more than I can. Dave

A few more places to look around while you are trying to decide....

ibdozing.com

machinerytrader.com
Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club

Hi Bradley,

As Ole Shovel said, the Cat forums are a great help. You didn't say where you are. A friend here in central Va has a half-restored D6 that he's lost interest in. Retired machinist, who knows what would be necessary to get it working. Pony's already rebuilt and fuel system repaired, something to do with the clutches remaining. This one's likely pre-WWII. I've got photos.

My experience with my old Cats is that parts are not normally any more expensive than the JD or Case tractors I've worked on. Dealer support, I've found better than either JD or Case. My parts guys groan (good-naturedly) when I walk in and they know they have to reach for the microfische.

Once had a bypass valve I needed to replace, couldn't figure out how to get it out of the housing. The parts guys had the new valve ($12) but had no idea how it was held in place. Called the shop and headed me to the oldest guy there, only one who'd ever seen the model Cat I had. He looked at the housing foldly, headed for a vice and grabbed a BFH. Whack, problem solved. Turned out the housing was 2 parts, supposted to fall apart when you removed it. Mine was glued together with multiple coats of paint, completly hiding the seam.

Dozers I don't have much interest in, so I can't offer any advice on your search, other than there's a cheap opportunity here.

Ditto on ACME & ACMOC forums, these are excellent sources of information and "Caterpillar" comradery if you will.

The thing with crawlers is, know what you are getting, before you get it.

Mid 40's to Late 50's, early 60's tractors still seem to be popular and seemingly abundant, for use like you mention and many others doing similar work on their own, I can attest to that era D7 tractors being a great choice for work around a farm etc. In those years, these tractors were well built, very reliable, but still require a fair amount of maintenance and if you look at a lubrication chart for one, no shortage of fittings to look after, not all that different from a combine in that respect.

I think the most important aspect of considering a crawler tractor is to assess it's condition, because some components, like final drives, undercarriage, can be costly to repair and require special tools, like say to remove a sprocket, or the ability to work on and repair the tracks. Undercarriage can be expensive to replace, and older tractors you may have to source used or aftermarket parts. I think it's very wise to check a track type tractor out thoroughly, especially in these areas, determining track wear, requires measuring all the components and comparing against new specifications, (see link below).

I would recommend finding a tractor that is in field ready condition with a decent undercarriage, unless you plan to or can do the larger kinds of repairs often times needed to restore one to field ready condition, I think it's wise to spend the extra money for one a little newer or field ready condition, some of the later series D6's like the D6B,C,D models from the early 60's and on would make a nice tractor for this purpose.

Be wary of fresh paint jobs, and you must really inspect things carefully, D8's were meant for and most times worked hard, though not to say with any of these, you won't find one well kept, for every one of those there might be a dozen that are worn out or in the vicinity of same. Things like poorly done welding repairs in the areas of the final housings or track frames, are something hidden by fresh paint, a good heavy equipment mechanic would be very helpful to consult with, say after identifying a tractor you may be interested in, by it's serial number, and the mechanic being familiar with that era tractor, something both those forums are great for.

I think a lot of us realize, renting or hired out may be more cost effective, I find renting very cost effective, but own one as well, of course there is a night and day difference in operating both, the old tractor will still get the job done, and is there if you need it, say if something gets stuck or you need to tow a log, build a road or what have you, at least you have one on site.

Larger ones are heavy and if you have soft ground, you'll be real wise to respect those areas, track type tractors will sink in soft material, get a D8 size tractor stuck in some suction, or deep material you may have a real project on your hands to get it out, same is true with a smaller one, and of course one with loose or tracks that cannot be tensioned properly, always seem to find a way to come off when this happens, contributing to the difficulty of getting it out, something else you have to do.

In all, with some good advice, and some diligent research, depending on your budget, you should be able to find what you need, just good to be aware of some things about these if you are not already, definitely a good thing to own and have ready for your own use when you need it, just know what you are getting.
U/C measuring

I started out with a 1950 D4. Had it for several years and did nothing but routine service. Ran it for 4 or 5 years. Got lots of jobs done. Moved up to a d6b and it was better and faster. Had no trouble with that one. Had it two years and moved up to a D6C. It was great after the others and finally powershift. Had it 3 years and got a John Deere 850B. More power and started doing commercial work. Had it 3 years. Then I bought a 2002 850C and its setting by the shop now. It is a great tractor and fun to use. It is the first one I have done anything to and that was to replace the undercarriage. I had it completely repaced at john deere and it cost me 25000 for the whole thing which I thought was reasonable. So Get one you think will do the job you have now and work your way up. After your first one you will know what to buy and what to look for on the machine. As cheap as a small D4 is you can't lose much money. So just go for it and have Fun!

Undercarriage is the money pit. Check out nnalert for additional tips on measuring wear.

Thanks for the info. Gives me something to think about, just kicking the idea around yet.