350 no throttle response

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My 350 crawler has little or no RPM increase when I move the lever on the pump by hand...linkage disconnected.

What's inside the pump for fuel metering?
 
It depends on what model pump you have. It can be a Stanadyne/Roosamaster D series or a C series.
The D series has all governor parts and metering valve inside the pump.
The C series has a long tube sticking out the back of the pump with the trottle attached to it. This setup is prone to the throttle hookup wearing out. There is a set of rack in pinion gears inside that wear out.
 
I believe it's a C....how much work is involved in pulling the pump..i see a line going in behind next to the block (tight space).

I do business with Ralph in Caz (20 min away) ..is this something they should repair?

And..how difficult is timing @ reassembly?

Thanks

Jim
 
If you have a C pump, you do not have to remove the pump to fix. C pump is small, has that throttle tube sticking out the back, and the shut-off wire is a "push on, pull off" type on the side of the pump. You might not even need any parts. That throttle works from a rack and pinion gear setup. The pinion gear is usually the part that completely wears out, and only half of it is used (180 degrees). Often you can take it out, flip it over, and reuse. All easy to do with the pump still mounted on the engine.

In regard to getting new gears? Just about all repair parts specific to that pump were discontinued in the early 80s. That's why Deere sells kits to change over to a different pump model. There are some shops around that repair these pumps with used or left-over parts.
 
Thanks...it would save alot of work to not pull the unit!

Are there any exploded views online?

If not what is the procedure to take the throttle tube off?
 
You don't have to remove the tube. All you do is remove the little bolt that holds the throttle arm on. Then pull arm off and push the little pinion gear (# 101) out sideways. There's an o-ring on each side of the gear to seal it. If you're lucky, you can just flip the gear over 180 degrees and put it back in (if that is your problem). If the gear is completely bad, or the rack-gear is bad, then you're kind of screwed. You'be be at the mercy of whoever happens to have some new or used gears on the shelf and whatever price they want to charge you. Stanadyne hasn't made them for years.

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=100_2211.jpg" target="_blank">
100_2211.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=100_2215.jpg" target="_blank">
100_2215.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
 
That was a very simple fix! Just as you said;the pinion gear was worn on the bottom...rotated it 1/2 turn and got full response.
Now I can go out and move some earth.
The ammeter was burned up the other day also..i jumped in/out together and get power...what causes them to melt down?

Thanks so much for your help!

Jim
 

jdmarris,

That was good info, thanks for your scans and help. While I don't have a type C pump (I have a D), you have posted much info on repairing that model. I am fairly sure I will be going into mine in the future. And again accessing your posted information!
Thanks for your contributions....sl
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top