Track tension adjustment?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My new tracks seem to be loosened up (not stiff from paint) so I decided to adjust them for proper tension. I let it coast to a stop and then pumped them as tight as they'd go. I made a mark 3/8in. behind the idler block on the track frame. I loosened the adjusters then backed up just slightly so the idlers would go back. Then I tightened the adjusters and pumped them with grease until I got to the mark I made on the track frame. Both tracks had about 1 3/4inchs of slack. I went and used the machine, mostly just the backhoe. One track was right at 2 inchs slack but the other one was at almost 2 1/2 inches slack. Both idler blocks were still lined up with the marks on the track frame. I tightened the one track to just slightly over 2 inches of slack. The idler blocked moved about 1/8in. ahead of the mark. When I originally adjusted them, it was on flat ground and the tracks were dry and all the mud and dirt fell off of them. Is it common that I had to readjust the one side? Seems a little odd to me but I haven't had a lot of Cats in the past. Dave
 
The only thing I can think of is the adjuster itself, did you notice any loss of grease from either side, excluding any that was released from loosening. Not that familiar with these except for doing adjustments on similar tractors while on site. 1 1/2" - 2" slack was what we used to maintain, assume yours would be similar unless otherwise stated, would have to be a leak if the adjuster is not holding ???
 
I put new seals in the track adjusters. I would have thought maybe a leak but the idler block was still lined up with the mark on the track frame. Maybe there was a little dirt or something not letting the bushing fit all the way in the sprocket? Maybe I didn't quite pump the track as tight as it would go? Just seemed odd. I'll keep an eye on it. My sprockets may still need to wear in some or maybe one of them did right after I adjusted the tracks? LoL Dave
 
yeah, you don't want em to come off, imagining some run time might help expose any problems, new seals, so the adjuster should be good, better a little loose than over tightened. I have run my old D7 with some extra slack in deep snow, the snow really packs into the sprocket root if you don't have snow pads with holes for the snow to come out, really tigthens em up, recoil spring on this old manual adjust type can release quickly, bang etc. might have been some crushed/packed fines in the sprocket root that may have fell out later.
 
Run it and keep adjusting for about 50 hours..It should stabilize by then[ missalignments , high spots worn down , etc]....
 

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