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Best thing you can do is write down the serial numbers of each tractor, and post them here, that will identify each. D2's, D4's up to the late 50's both had horizontally opposed 2 cylinder starting engines mounted directly behind the engine and I think there may have been similarities between them, might be able to swap, although they did not share the same diesel engine. Someone else be able to clarify this better than I have, not familiar with the details on these 2 models. Early D-6's with the 3 cylinder diesel, had the vertical cylinder starting engine, was 24 hp I think. The D7 9G, 7M, 3T 4T and I think as far back as the Diesel 75 that became the RD-8, and then the D-8 1H, 2U series all shared that same 2 cylinder 24 hp vertical starting engine, as well as a few other earlier diesel models from the 30's Later D6's had the 2 cylinder horizontally opposed starting engine, after the D6 5R series ( approximately, going off memory ) It was changed when the D6 was upgraded to a 6 cyl. diesel, like the 9U series has. Early D6's with 3cyl., D7's and D8's until the end of the D7 3T and D8 2U series I think you could make the swap between them, but you have to use certain parts from the tractor it's being put on and not use some from the donor. Not sure if a D4 horizontally opposed starting engine would work on a D6 with the horizontally opposed starting engine, that would seem to be the only one it could be possible with. None of those would work on a D7 3T series or the D8 2U's, and the next series that followed, the starting motors were changed again, for the D7, D8, D9 from mid to late 50's, and I think these shared the same one, but did not change until everything was direct start by the 60's, although they could still be ordered if you needed one for cold start climates. You can convert to direct start, I know some models you may have to have the hole precisely cut out if it's not already, but assume the pinion hole from the starting engine would suffice on a D7 or D8 with a starting engine, then you need to match the flywheel teeth style to the starter drive gear, the hole if not there and not having to change out the ring gear on the flywheel are 2 of the biggest hurdles I've read about. It could cost $1000 when said and done to convert, + or -. There is some great information and people to discuss these direct start conversions with on the ACMOC and ACME forums, I'll post the links, some information is posted, but you will need the serial numbers of each tractor. If you can find the tractor serial number tags, either on the side of the engine block or on the back, lower left above the final drive filler plug, in most cases, that will narrow it down. if the tags are not legible, you might want to carefully clean them off, or trace out the letters/numbers with a dental pick. Under the tag, the serial number is stamped as well, under the paint probably, if the tag is missing, it should be stamped directly under it. I'd check to see if the main engine on the large crawler is not stuck from sitting, all of this will be a waste of time if that is the case, have to free it up somehow 1st, might want to check and see if it's got any cracks from freezing as well. If you can get the blade up, if it's a direct drive, hand clutch lever and manual transmission lever, not a powershift, you may be able to pull start it, again if it's not seized, and the tracks are not frozen, provided there is enough space to pull and you have something to pull it with. Jus thinking aloud, the starting engine in the weeds does not sound good, probably rusted inside by now and may have tossed a rod if it was taken off. You may be able to find one of those 2cyl. vertical ones for a few hundred, there are a few advantages with them and also a few things to be careful as well, but when running and taken care of they are great for cold starts. Same is true for the other type of starting engine, they do come up for sale, think I recall one posted not that long ago on one of the sites below. If either crawler has a decent undercarriage, they may be worth fooling with, or to use parts to build another of the same serial number run, people have stumbled across ones that are not completely worn out, photos would be interesting. Lot of things to check, but you never know until you try. Thinking aloud here, see what you can do to get the serial numbers. ACME:
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