CASE 880 Excavator

PinionGear · Nov 4, 2023

Hi there folks!

I m not that experienced in repairing, maintaining, and the operation of heavy equipment. So please excuse my ignorance when I ask the question I m about to pose.

I have a 1980 CASE 880 excavator. I believe it has the A336BDT diesel engine. It hasn t been run in 5 or 6 years. I attempted to start it today. I wasn t successful but I was encouraged that the engine wasn t stuck from sitting all those years.

I don t think it was getting any fuel. There were no telltale signs of combustion. The fuel shutoff was in its proper open position. The former owner used to spray ether to get it started.

There is an ether injection cartridge in the engine compartment. It appears old and disconnected. Part number 9 in the Cold Weather Starting diagram is a jet. Wherever the jet used to go is where I need to spray the ether?

My question is where the hell do I spray the ether? I ve attached photos from the parts manual showing the air cleaner, ether injection and intake manifold exploded views to help figure this out.

Any feedback very much welcome!

Al

buzzinduzzin · Nov 4, 2023

the # 9 jet has a very small hole ! if you remove & spray directly be conservative

PinionGear · Nov 4, 2023

But where does the #9 jet normally go?

Jim.ME · Nov 5, 2023

The jet goes in the threaded hole in the side, at the center, of the intake manifold. It is best if the engine is cranking when you give it just a whiff, not a blast.

I suggest you crack the high-pressure fuel lines from the injection pump loose at the injection nozzle ends (cylinder head) and see if the pump is delivering fuel to them before using much starting fluid. Fuel won't be a big spray, but you should see some dribble out when the lines are loosened. Don't get hands or body parts around the high-pressure lines when cranking as serious to fatal injury can occur form fuel or oil injected under the skin.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/05/2023 at 04:11 am.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 05:04:39 11/05/23)
In the threaded hole in the side, at the center, of the intake manifold.

Can you recommend opening up the dry air filter and spraying ether there? Or is there a better location?

Jim.ME · Nov 5, 2023

You can do that. It is common to just spray at the inlet cover of the hose/tube going to the air cleaner. It takes a bit more cranking to pull the starting fluid through the air filter.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

Is the inlet cover you mention shown in the part s diagram I ve provided?

Jim.ME · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 08:25:02 11/05/23)
Is the inlet cover you mention shown in the part s diagram I ve provided?

No, it should have something similar to this on the outside of the engine enclosure.

Dieseltech · Nov 5, 2023

Since it's not run for awhile, the injection pump rack MIGHT be stuck due to one or more pump plungers being stuck. Rack can be checked by removing the round cap at
front of pump just above the timing gearcase. Cap has two flats for a 19MM open wrench to remove the cap. With cap off the rack MUST move freely in/out by using the
governor stop control lever. There's a small starting spring in the governor to help pull the rack to starting/forward position when all is well. If rack is stuck OUT,
fuel ON position, DO NOT start engine until pump is working correctly. Only takes ONE stuck plunger to keep rack from moving freely, but other plungers COULD start/run
engine to overspeed/rod throwing destruction. Only way to stop a runaway engine is to block off the airflow at the intake manifold.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

Got it! You ve been so helpfully Jim. Thanks!

I think what I ll do is crank the engine and then crack the fuel lines at the injectors as you suggest. I ll be working alone so I ll have to crank the engine before cracking the injectors. I suppose if there isn t any fuel dribbling out I might crank on the engines while the injector fuel lines are cracked.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

Thank you. I m going to familiarize myself with the injection pump parts diagram to identify what you indicate as "rack" as well as the other parts you mentioned.

I think though that determining wether fuel is or is not getting to the injectors will be a good start.

Jim.ME · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 08:57:57 11/05/23)
Got it! You ve been so helpfully Jim. Thanks!

I think what I ll do is crank the engine and then crack the fuel lines at the injectors as you suggest. I ll be working alone so I ll have to crank the engine before cracking the injectors. I suppose if there isn t any fuel dribbling out I might crank on the engines while the injector fuel lines are cracked.

Start by reading and following what Dieseltech posted for you.

After following his advice to check the rack movement, when you reach the point of checking for fuel at the injectors, the engine needs to be cranked (with fuel stop in the run position) when the lines are loosened to see if fuel comes out. Not loosening the lines after cranking. You may need to enlist some help or get a remote starter button so you can crank the engine without being in the cab.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 06:10:47 11/05/23)

(quoted from post at 08:57:57 11/05/23)
Got it! You ve been so helpfully Jim. Thanks!

I think what I ll do is crank the engine and then crack the fuel lines at the injectors as you suggest. I ll be working alone so I ll have to crank the engine before cracking the injectors. I suppose if there isn t any fuel dribbling out I might crank on the engines while the injector fuel lines are cracked.

Click to expand...

Start by reading and following what Dieseltech posted for you.

After following his advice to check the rack movement, when you reach the point of checking for fuel at the injectors, the engine needs to be cranked (with fuel stop in the run position) when the lines are loosened to see if fuel comes out. Not loosening the lines after cranking. You may need to enlist some help or get a remote starter button so you can crank the engine without being in the cab.

I don t yet have visuals for the rack and the other associated parts that Dieseltech mentioned. I might have to find a service manual. When you say "fuel stop in the run position" are you referring to the lever in the cab?

Jim.ME · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 09:29:07 11/05/23)

(quoted from post at 06:10:47 11/05/23)

(quoted from post at 08:57:57 11/05/23)
Got it! You ve been so helpfully Jim. Thanks!

I think what I ll do is crank the engine and then crack the fuel lines at the injectors as you suggest. I ll be working alone so I ll have to crank the engine before cracking the injectors. I suppose if there isn t any fuel dribbling out I might crank on the engines while the injector fuel lines are cracked.

Click to expand...

Start by reading and following what Dieseltech posted for you.

After following his advice to check the rack movement, when you reach the point of checking for fuel at the injectors, the engine needs to be cranked (with fuel stop in the run position) when the lines are loosened to see if fuel comes out. Not loosening the lines after cranking. You may need to enlist some help or get a remote starter button so you can crank the engine without being in the cab.

Click to expand...

I don t yet have visuals for the rack and the other associated parts that Dieseltech mentioned. I might have to find a service manual. When you say "fuel stop in the run position" are you referring to the lever in the cab?

Here is a link to the online Case 880 parts book (based on you posting it is an 880). the injection pump shows in the engine section. I didn't see a full breakdown of the pump, however the cap Dieseltech mentioned does show. You should not go beyond checking what Dieseltech (his business is repair of injection systems) has suggested, as far as getting into the pump. Injection pumps are precision components and proper tooling is needed to repair adjust and calibrate. If there is a problem, he can't talk you through, it is best to send the pump to him, or another qualified injection repair shop.

Yes, you should get a service manual and an Operator's manual for it. They will help you understand the machine and how it operates.

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6?categorySearch=true

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

I have the parts manual and operation manual. I don t see what was referred to as the cap and plungers. I ll check the website and order the service manual if available.

I plan to work on the excavator today specifically looking for the things that dieseltech outlined. I ll take photos and post them later today.

Dieseltech · Nov 5, 2023

Since you are working alone, injection pump can be tested this way also. Loosen all four injector inlet line nuts one turn each so they will leak. Locate the fuel stop
lever on the lower back side of governor next to engine block and disconnect any lever control at the lever. Now use your remote start switch to turn engine over while
holding the stop lever reward, NO FUEL should be at the injectors. Now move lever fully forward, fuel ten SHOULD be at injectors while cranking engine. If fuel will
stop/start while moving the lever back/forth while cranking pump is OK. If fuel WILL NOT turn off/on then pump has issues and needs further attention. I've tested
several like this before on engines that have not run awhile.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 12:41:42 11/05/23) Since you are working alone, injection pump can be tested this way also. Loosen all four injector inlet line nuts one turn each so they will leak. Locate the fuel stop
lever on the lower back side of governor next to engine block and disconnect any lever control at the lever. Now use your remote start switch to turn engine over while
holding the stop lever reward, NO FUEL should be at the injectors. Now move lever fully forward, fuel ten SHOULD be at injectors while cranking engine. If fuel will
stop/start while moving the lever back/forth while cranking pump is OK. If fuel WILL NOT turn off/on then pump has issues and needs further attention. I've tested
several like this before on engines that have not run awhile.

This seems like a simpler way to test the pump and to avoid a meltdown. Will the engine potentially fire during this test? This procedure is also bleeding the system of air. Is that right?

I took a picture of the pump today in hopes of identifying the cap you mentioned but I m not able to see it.

I also noticed that the air inlet that Jim pointed out was not actually on my machine. It appears the radiator cap was below this opening. I did however discover that the air inlet was actually part of the air filter. The air inlet was located at the back of the air filter. I attached a photo of it but the picture is not very good. This is where the former owner would spray ether.

Much appreciate all the help. I m hoping to hear it run before it s snowed in.

Al

Dieseltech · Nov 5, 2023

The engine won't start with all injector line nuts loose, even if pump is OK. The rack cap is at the FRONT of pump, just above the timing case pump bolts to. Cap is
about 3/4 inch long with two flats on it for removal with 19 MM open wrench. There's a screw with shims threaded into the rack end. it SHOULD push in easily IF pump is
OK. DO NOT BEAT ON IT WITH TOOLS!!! Full rack travel is 21 MM and should go in/out with operation forward/reward of the stop lever on back lower side of governor
housing. NO rack movement means pump has one or more plungers stuck inside, which keeps rack from moving as needed for governor to control engine speed.

PinionGear · Nov 5, 2023

(quoted from post at 19:59:51 11/05/23) The engine won't start with all injector line nuts loose, even if pump is OK. The rack cap is at the FRONT of pump, just above the timing case pump bolts to. Cap is
about 3/4 inch long with two flats on it for removal with 19 MM open wrench. There's a screw with shims threaded into the rack end. it SHOULD push in easily IF pump is
OK. DO NOT BEAT ON IT WITH TOOLS!!! Full rack travel is 21 MM and should go in/out with operation forward/reward of the stop lever on back lower side of governor
housing. NO rack movement means pump has one or more plungers stuck inside, which keeps rack from moving as needed for governor to control engine speed.

I take it the cap is not shown in the photo I attached previously. If I understand this right the cap is hidden by coolant plumbing. Do you have a photo of the cap and rack?

Dieseltech · Nov 5, 2023

Nope, just look where I told you, it's there. ALL Bosch A size pumps have one.

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