586E tilt cyclinders

trak

Member
The rear of the tilt cylinder, im trying to
remove them, I have the keepers out of the
pins that go through the cylinder, there's
no bind on it, but still won't come out,
they'll move back and forth a quarter inch
or so, what is holding them?
 
(quoted from post at 12:50:39 07/22/22) The rear of the tilt cylinder, im trying to
remove them, I have the keepers out of the
pins that go through the cylinder, there's
no bind on it, but still won't come out,
they'll move back and forth a quarter inch
or so, what is holding them?

Case Forklift?

Likely a wear ring on the pin at a bushing or pin boss.
 

It looks like they used two different style tilt cylinders, depending on the mast used. One type has two ears on the base end of cylinder, which straddle an ear on the frame. The other type has one heavy ear on the cylinder baser which fits between two ears on the frame. This type uses self-aligning bushings inside that heavy ear. If that is the type, you have, the bushing may be seized to the pin.
 
I'm not having any luck, considering
removing the frame brackets, or rebuilding
the cylinders on the machine, sending a
picture anyways
cvphoto131228.jpg


cvphoto131230.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:38 07/23/22) I'm not having any luck, considering
removing the frame brackets, or rebuilding
the cylinders on the machine, sending a
picture anyways
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto131228.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto131230.jpg>

That one is the type that should have a self-aligning bushing in the cylinder. The ball of the bushing has likely rusted/seized to the pin given how dry it looks, considering the grease fitting, in your picture, that should have been used to keep it lubed. The movement you got was likely the bushing moving in the cylinder end. You could try heating the pin in the gap between the frame and end of the cylinder and soaking with your favorite penetrating oil (watch out for fire). Let it cool before driving as the heat will swell the pin. You could cut the pin off on both sides of the cylinder, then remove pieces. Be aware the pin and bushing may not be available from Case (I have not checked, but such is not uncommon, so you may want to check before cutting so you know what you are getting into). You can get a pin made at a machine shop (measure and sketch out the pin before you cut it). The bushing can likely be matched up by dimension at an industrial bearing supply house.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 07/23/2022 at 04:42 pm.
 

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