Gehlk HL2500 Transmission

Just picked up a Gehl HL2500. I'm told it needs a right-side transmission. Right now it starts and runs on choke for a few seconds before shutting down. It's probably a plugged main jet, so after I get the carb done, I'll be able to get a better idea of what repairs the machine needs in the driveline.

In the mean time, just curious if anyone has had any luck repairing the transmissions on these? The guy I got it from said right side just stopped working. If no one has been able to repair them, where can I find a rebuilt or used trans?

Thanks, Jim

This post was edited by mongoosetoo on 05/31/2022 at 05:01 am.
 
If you want them I have 3 manuals for the HL2500A. Operators, Service , Parts manuals $6.00 Each plus the shipping
cvphoto127080.jpg
 
I got the engine running - bad fuel pump.

The right side does not move. I have the machine on jackstands. Left side fights me when I try to manually spin the wheels, as it should. Right side spins relatively free. I pulled the two check valve assemblies (they were new from previous owner). Swapped the check valves from other side - no change. Trying to pull the Charge Pump relief valve, and the Relief Valve Cone, did not come out so I could inspect it. Anyone have a tip for removing it without taking the transmission out?

Also, the manual shows a "shim - as required" in between the cap and pressure spring. When I took it apart, I see no shim. I'm fairly well-versed in hydraulics (it's what I did in the Air Force) - curious if a shim is required, and how one determines that?? I'm gonna find a suitable shim in my junk drawer and try it to see if it makes a difference in wheel spinning resistance without the engine running. Please share any thoughts you may have for troubleshooting this. Thanks

EDIT: found a tiny nut in my junk drawer to act a shim for troubleshooting. It's about 3/32" thick. Hand spun the wheels on both side of the skid and it made no difference. Left side (the good side) still fights me to spin tires by hand; right side provides little resistance. Is it time to pull the transmission out? Who services this type of issue?

This post was edited by mongoosetoo on 06/03/2022 at 09:49 am.
 
(quoted from post at 12:30:27 06/03/22) I got the engine running - bad fuel pump.

The right side does not move. I have the machine on jackstands. Left side fights me when I try to manually spin the wheels, as it should. Right side spins relatively free. I pulled the two check valve assemblies (they were new from previous owner). Swapped the check valves from other side - no change. Trying to pull the Charge Pump relief valve, and the Relief Valve Cone, did not come out so I could inspect it. Anyone have a tip for removing it without taking the transmission out?

Also, the manual shows a "shim - as required" in between the cap and pressure spring. When I took it apart, I see no shim. I'm fairly well-versed in hydraulics (it's what I did in the Air Force) - curious if a shim is required, and how one determines that?? I'm gonna find a suitable shim in my junk drawer and try it to see if it makes a difference in wheel spinning resistance without the engine running. Please share any thoughts you may have for troubleshooting this. Thanks

EDIT: found a tiny nut in my junk drawer to act a shim for troubleshooting. It's about 3/32" thick. Hand spun the wheels on both side of the skid and it made no difference. Left side (the good side) still fights me to spin tires by hand; right side provides little resistance. Is it time to pull the transmission out? Who services this type of issue?

This post was edited by mongoosetoo on 06/03/2022 at 09:49 am.

Please answer, have you checked the drive chain as Dieseltech suggested?
 
(quoted from post at 10:43:34 06/03/22)
(quoted from post at 12:30:27 06/03/22) I got the engine running - bad fuel pump.

The right side does not move. I have the machine on jackstands. Left side fights me when I try to manually spin the wheels, as it should. Right side spins relatively free. I pulled the two check valve assemblies (they were new from previous owner). Swapped the check valves from other side - no change. Trying to pull the Charge Pump relief valve, and the Relief Valve Cone, did not come out so I could inspect it. Anyone have a tip for removing it without taking the transmission out?

Also, the manual shows a "shim - as required" in between the cap and pressure spring. When I took it apart, I see no shim. I'm fairly well-versed in hydraulics (it's what I did in the Air Force) - curious if a shim is required, and how one determines that?? I'm gonna find a suitable shim in my junk drawer and try it to see if it makes a difference in wheel spinning resistance without the engine running. Please share any thoughts you may have for troubleshooting this. Thanks

EDIT: found a tiny nut in my junk drawer to act a shim for troubleshooting. It's about 3/32" thick. Hand spun the wheels on both side of the skid and it made no difference. Left side (the good side) still fights me to spin tires by hand; right side provides little resistance. Is it time to pull the transmission out? Who services this type of issue?

Please answer, have you checked the drive chain as Dieseltech suggested?
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This post was edited by mongoosetoo on 06/03/2022 at 11:25 am.
 

I am going to try to build an adapter to mate to what's left of the shaft. I am not very hopeful that it will hold up. Eventually, I think I will have to disassemble the trans and charge pump, TIG weld the shaft, and turn it back down on a lathe. That stated, does anyone have a source for the Charge Pump Motor Shaft, Gehl #602075? I am seeing $800+ out there...would prefer a used shaft or charge pump to salvage from - so does anyone have a used source also? Would purchase the part or a whole unit if the price is reasonable.

Also, if anyone is interested why the failure occurred I am 99% sure the reason this happened was someone replaced the engine on this skid with a Kohler 25 HP- looks like years ago. When they did the conversion, the stock muffler sits right against the Fuel Tank spout (I know - crazy!). In doing so, they misaligned the pulley on the motor with the drive pulley on the transmission coupling by what looks to be about 1/2-3/4". The multi-groove drive belt is separated from wear on the right side - which means misalignment. But more importantly, there was side stress on the coupling.

Moral of the story - its fine to do a motor swap, just do it right! I am going to bend the fuel Tank spout away from the muffler, wrap the fuel pipe in reflective heat tape, and properly align the pulleys.
 
Forget about Gehl, for now.

It appears you have a Sundstrand ''15 Series'' hydrostatic transmission (U-type) and they were used in many things and parts are available.

https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Sunstrand_Txmsn_Manual.pdf

Link to service manual.

Check out ebay auctions #284478705783 (don't be confused by the attached fan, it's held on with a rollpin and comes off) and #203880987617.

It's very likely that either of those shafts will fit your hydro.

If you decide to repair it you will need a housing gasket and a couple of seals, I can give you some part numbers if you'd like.
 
I bought the first EBay one you listed. For $34 + $12 shipping, I am willing to gamble that it fits. Thanks again.



This post was edited by mongoosetoo on 06/05/2022 at 06:49 am.
 
(quoted from post at 08:20:22 06/10/22) Thanks again - the part showed up and is an exact match!

YAY!

Nothing like a reasonably-priced repair!

Thanks for posting back with the results!
 
Thanks again. Finally got it back together. There was long delay at the machinist shop. He bored out the coupling and re-bushing'd it. All back together now.

Next and hopefully final question... What kind of Hyd Fluid do I use. Manual says,

Automatic Transmission Oil - Type A
Automatic Transmission Oil - Type F
Mobil Oil Co. Mobilfluid - No. 300
American Oil Co. Rykon - No. 21

I have a 2 gallon jug of Traveller Universal Hydraulic Fluid and in the compatibility table it mention Ford, Type C, B, A. Any chance I can use that to top off with?
 

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