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HD3 fuel delivery system update 5-28-22

M

Mr. T. Minnesota

Member
Forum,
Just returned from northern Minnesota this AM. I have been working on this HD3 Allis for 2 1/2 years cleaning the fuel system of algae contaminated fuel. Along with that issue others weak spots developed "Murphy's Law".
One issue was trouble with the engine that would not turn over after I had revamped the fuel system last November. Had the starter tested in my home town and it proved to be good. I believe the problem was a dead 6volt battery that blocked (resisted) current flow. Replaced the 6volt battery (part of my 18 volt starting system) and now it spins as before.
Did it start, not quite, but close. It fired a few times. Two issues come to mind. First the engine has worn rings and blow-by which I believe makes it hard to start. Second, bleeding an Allis 175 is not like a few other diesels I have worked on. There is too much tension in the injector lines vertically into the injectors to allow for an easy bleed process. Just my opinion. When the blue berries are ripe in northern Minnesota this summer I will attempt to start it again. Any and all comments are welcome.
 
Good to hear that you're at it again, have you tried using a bit of ether to help it start. Just don't take the advice on the ether can when it says to 'spray 2 to 5 seconds into the air intake', that is a recipe for trouble on a small diesel engine. Gentle use of ether is very helpful. If it fired a bit, as you said, the air is not a problem to at least one or two injectors. Let's hope you get it running well at blueberry season. Looking forward to a good report!

This post was edited by Nordic on 05/30/2022 at 01:39 pm.
 
There is too much tension in the injector lines vertically into the injectors to allow for an easy bleed process.

Why is there ..too much tension...? You don't have to remove the nut from the fuel delivery line to beleed it. You merely
have to loosen it enough to leak any air out.

If you are concerned that the compression is low, remove the injectors and measure the compression pressure. I don't know
the specs but generally, the pressure should be above 350 psig.

Is the air intake system and the exhaust clear and the pump timing correct?
 
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I did use ether sparingly. When it knocks one knows it is overkill. Wish there was a way to get oil on top of the pistons to increase compression. We used that
on an old PD40 MD power unit that powered our sawmill years ago. Catch was the PD 40 had a gasoline starting head that one could pull the plugs and squirt oil in and it drained to
the worn rings and it started a lot faster. Minnesota Iron Range technology!! Will keep you posted when I head up north next.
 
Jerry MT,
Thanks for the reply. By too much tension I mean when one attempts to bleed the injector line to the injector there is a lot of upward push/force not allowing for an easy bleed. When one removes the injector line it is a hard pull to separate the two parts. It is like they are locked together. It could be easier. As far as compression is concerned there is a lot of blow by and lot of oil expelled from the breather tube. My thought is to have it overhauled replacing rings, sleeves and such. It could be an in frame job. I do not think bearings are at fault because it has very good oil pressure. Parts are about $1100. I recently changed the air filter. As far as timing goes when I removed the injector pump I marked it and reset it to the correct spot. One suggested changing the timing a degree or two but it ran so well before the contaminated fuel issue that will be the last ditch remedy. Again, any further advice will be appreciated.
 
I'm with Jerry on this. If just cracking the nut loose at the injector doesn't allow it to bleed, then your injector pump must be
bad. You should be seeing 2000psi or so there. That better overcome any tension you have.
 
Another thing you can do to help make starting a little easier, use a hand held propane torch to warm up the intake manifold really well. Hot air in the combustion chamber will make for a much easier start. Just don't use ether if you heat the manifold as that can cause damage (BTDT).
You mention possibly doing an inframe, I have heard others say parts are nearly impossible to get for the 175 cu. in. diesel.
Another possibility is putting a gas engine in your dozer to do away with the 'diesel woes'. It would be fun for you to get past the frustrations and enjoy doing some bulldozing.
 
Forum,
Thanks for the replies. One item mentioned is pre heating the manifold. This HD3 has a functioning 'air horn which I will utilize more often. As for 2000 psi to open the injectors it should bleed easily. My thought is if the line is air bound there should be no resistance/blockage to let air escape to allow a successful bleeding process. With that in mind the next time I bleed it again I am going to attempt to pull the loosened injector line away from the injector. I am willing to try anything once and again. If all else fails I will attempt to test pressure exiting the injector line ports on the pump. Wish this HD3 was in my yard instead of three and a half hours away. Will keep you posted on
 

Air can compress. When the injection pump puts fuel into the line with air in it the volume of fuel may not be enough to compress the air to 2000+ psi needed to pop the injection nozzle, leaving the air in the line. If the line is full of fuel, which doesn't compress, the fuel delivery from the pump builds the required pressure to pop the injection nozzle.
 
If this machine hasn't run for a long time maybe the rings are stuck. I would still recommend a compression check, both dry and wet, to see if it's worn rings or leaky valves, bent pushrods, etc
 
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