Case 530CK backhoe - How to operate/info on transmission

Hoedown

Member
Hey guys, Just picked up a gas powered, 1964 Case 530CK tractor, loader, backhoe. Runs great, but needs a lot of hydraulic work. I have run small equipment before, but this thing is all new to me. It is a 4 speed with high and low range, a shuttle shift, and a torque converter. I have zero experience this type of transmission. I got it loaded and unloaded, but I was a bit jerky with it, so I may have done something to it. Can someone explain how this transmission works?
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This post was edited by Hoedown on 05/26/2022 at 04:49 pm.
 
Power from the engine goes through the torque to the shuttle, the shuttle consists of two clutches one for each direction, depending on which clutch is engaged power goes into a four speed transmission with a high and low range giving eight forward and reverse gears, the clutches in the shuttle are hydraulically operated, ie when you select a direction oil is fed under pressure to the selected clutch which squeezes the clutch discs together causing them to drive the output shaft to the transmission through the gear and range you selected, through the differential to the wheels, if its jerking the shuttle may be low in fluid, Case TCH or equivalent.
AJ
 
Thanks. The shifting is the standard "H" pattern with a "S" where reverse is on my old ford. Put it in "S" for shuttle shifting between forward and reverse? Also, there is a lever on the right under the steering wheel, that I was told it disengages the torque converter. I'm not sure it does anything at this point. If I pull it down, nothing changes, and if I hit the clutch, it moves back up. Again, does anyone have a video of how these controls work?
Thanks again, Hoedown
 
I believe you have a Case O matic trans mission, You also have a shuttle transmission, they are separate parts in this tractor, The clutch needs to be used when using the shuttle shift, it is not a power shuttle like on the 580C models. The lever under the
steering wheel is the torque converter lock lever, and pulling it down should lock the transmission in to direct drive, they can get sloppy with time and not have a real positive engagement. When you step on the clutch it returns the torque converter to the open
position. Post on the CASE forum there are many people who can give a better description of what you have.
Mike
 
One thing I think that may be helpful to you is that the
torque converter when not in the locked position will
allow you to drive the tractor like a car with an
automatic transmission TO AN EXTENT. You always
need to use the clutch to shift gears. So you can select
a gear hold the brakes let out the clutch and the
tractor will stay stopped and this harms nothing in the
transmission just like in a car with an auto trans. This is
because the ..fluid coupling.. in the torque converter
allows slipping. I suspect your loading activity onto the
trailer was jerky because you were constantly pushing
the clutch disconnecting the drive of the hydraulically
applies clutches AJ is telling you about. To get the
tractor on the trailer you could have simply chose gear
1 in low range. Let out the clutch and held the brakes. I
do not now if this tractor has an actual accelerator
pedal many did. Then you would have raised the
engine speed high enough to move the machine up the
ramps, giving the engine enough rpm to over come the
resistance of the incline and somewhat controlling
advancement with the brakes as well, all similar to a
car with an auto trans. You could keep your foot poised
on the clutch incase there was a need for an
emergency stop but otherwise the whole operation can
be performed without the clutch being pushed down.
Hope this helps.
 
Sorry for the late reply, but I was out of town.
Yes, that's exactly what I was doing with the clutch, and brakes, and gears and throttle pedal. Can't wait to get on it again. I currently have 4 hydraulic cylinders off being rebuilt.
I believe I understand how it works now.
Again, thanks for the help. Hoedown
 
Are you guys sure it has a tq? Didn't think
they did that with the hi/low range
shifter. First one I've heard of. One pedal
on the left, both brakes on the right would
be dry clutch wouldn't it? The right lever
should be forward is low. Middle is
neutral, and back is high. The keyway in
the shifter tends to get worn and sloppy.
When it does depending on how it's worn you
will either have low and neutral or neutral
and high. Shifter will not have enough
travel for all 3 until you fix it.
 

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