what kind of tractor do I have?

smilesforu1

New User
Need some help on a dozer I inherited
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Lots of times the tags are missing.Tag SHOULD ba just ahead of where your left foot rides.If it has a water pump it is a 420.If it doesn't,it is a 40.BUT,those engines are interchangeable.Also,it has been a while but I think there is an overlap on the waterpump usage.I can almost remember seeing something in the parts book about a 40 waterpump.General rule of thumb when I worked at the JD dealer was,waterpump=420.No waterpump=40.
 
It is a 40 series based on the 40 preceding the serial number. U is normally the Utility wheel tractor designation, C would be the normal crawler designation. Could the U be a C? Someone may have transplanted a Utility tractor torque tube, with tag, into it at some point. 40U 61915 puts it in the 1954 Utility model run by Tractor Data's list. A 40C 61915 would be a 1953 crawler. However the 1953's were only 3 roller track frames, by the parts book. It looks like yours is at least 4 rollers so at least part of it would be a 1954 or later, from info I found.
 
Got it a new battery today but it didn't fire, turned over nice.

Any tried and true tips? Going to try and pull plugs to check those for spark. Probably needs fuel too
 
I would say somebody has changed the torque tube.I've seen a lot of that where I am,guys would run the tractors in high gear over frozen ground hauling wood.The bolts would loosen up where the torque tube bolts to the transmission.There is very little support up front,and the bolts through the sides are pretty much going through heavy tin.When run with loose bolts the torque tube ears would break off and the transmission housing would chip around the holes.
 
Is this a positive ground tractor.. battery got replaced and not sure if it was put back correctly? currently I have no spark and a negative ground with battery hooked up
 
(quoted from post at 15:46:20 09/04/18) Is this a positive ground tractor.. battery got replaced and not sure if it was put back correctly? currently I have no spark and a negative ground with battery hooked up
es it was originally a 6 volt / positive ground system. With the key switch on, check for power at the wire from the key switch to the coil, then touch the coil post to the distributor, it should flash as you try to start, if not clean the points.
 
It would have been 6 volt, positive ground originally. To see if someone changed it to negative ground, check the coil. If it is still set for positive ground, the wire from the ignition switch will be on the - terminal and the wire to the distributor will be on the + terminal. If that is the case, you need to reverse your battery to be positive ground. You can change the whole electrical system to negative ground but I expect you would like to hear it run first.

As noted you may need to clean the points and depending on condition you may have to change the points and condenser. Make sure the end of the rotor button, distributor contacts and the plug wire ends are clean.
 
Got it running with a new coil, condensor and points. Had to bypass the gas to settling bowl (need new seals and tank appears clogged). the fuel switch was shut off and ran dry before storage so the carb worked great to get me going, with a boat tank I had sitting around.

Working on cleaning up the tank portion, not sure about the pieces on bottom of tank. (screen?, tube?) but can easily replace seals on the settling bowl.

advise on the fuel system clean up?
 

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