Shouldn't have bragged! CAT 935C final drive

Lloyd In South Carolina · Nov 27, 2010

Well my loader broke today. Something let go in the left side final drive. Gear oil coming out around the sproket axle, and if i put a load on it the gears jump on that side. Guessing a bearing let go?

Was able to limp is under lite throttle back up to the campsite where I have power. Looks like I have a project.

Question? Do these come apart like a car axle? Can I pull the counter weight, and then unbolt a axle and pull it out? Or do I need to break the chain, remove the sproket etc. to get in there?

Lloyd

JimInOz · Nov 27, 2010

I'd buy a shop manual for it...it will be the cheapest & handiest part you'll buy for the machine.
If it's like some Cats,you'll need a puller to pull the sprocket,& may even need to remove track frame.You possobly find a busted bearing,& damaged pinion or bullgear or both.
The manual will tell you the pulldown procedure.
Try to get to the best possible position to repair it,& allow tractor/truck access to the damaged side.
Good luck.

Anonymous-0 · Nov 27, 2010

You need to split the track Lloyd, be sure to let the idler back first. Then you can drain and unbolt the case from the tractor and take it to a shop with tools to repair it. Or rent the pullers or get someone with pulling tools to take it apart on site. I suspect the inner sprocket shaft bearing failed. If the pinion teeth are dammaged the steering clutch will also need to come out.
Later Bob

Anonymous-0 · Nov 27, 2010

That sucks! I was told the sprockets on my 931B are a taper fit and can need up to a 30 ton puller to get them off. That's part of the reason I welded sprocket rims on instead of replacing the whole sprocket. Judging from Bob's answer, the sprockets can be probably left on. He would know. Dave

Anonymous-0 · Nov 27, 2010

Hey Lloyd, I don't ever remember seeing where in SC you are but I live outside of Concord, NC and get down around the Lancaster, Rockhill, Chester area pretty regular. I work on construction equipment for a living and have a service truck with everything needed to do repairs like your looking at on hand from the air tools to the crane for picking steering clutches, etc. If you find the repair is more than you want or are able to tackle give me a shout. I can sure use the work right now and I'm ALOT cheaper than the dealerships.

NCWayne · Nov 27, 2010

The above post should have said NCWayne, my usual handle, I don"t know how I posted as NCayne.....

Lloyd In South Carolina · Nov 28, 2010

Yea, I got it up here to the front near the road, I believe without doing any more damage as with no load and lite throttle it walked along without jumping. At least up here I have power, and a small compressor.

Jacked it up, got that side a inch or 2 off the ground.

I think I see the master pin, they all look the same except 1 has a dimple in the center. Not sure yet what my plan is. I may take a shot at it myself or hire someone.

Wayne I'll keep you in mind. Thanks for the offer.I'm located near Sharon, S.C..

Didn't realize I would need special tools to pull it apart once I got the track apart.

L.

Bob Bancroft · Nov 28, 2010

Sorry to hear that Lloyd. Really enjoy your pictures, ideas, and projects. If you're over half-century old and alone like me it's probably well worth it to hire someone with tools and experience like Wayne offers.
I have a CaseIH expert with complete service truck coming to help me move a wheel out and fix some oil seeps on my Magnum tractor.

bob plumadore · Nov 28, 2010

If you are going to do the job first buy a service manual. Jack up both sides so you can turn the track with either a jack or a come a long. Drop the roller frame and pull the FD as a unit. My advice; contact Wayne that is the cheapest way. I am 70 been a Cat may all my life, even most of the 10 years I was in the Army. I think I gave my 935 books away.

Anonymous-0 · Nov 28, 2010

Doesn't your machine have a split master link? My 86 931 does. If your tracks are worn some, you can probably pull the idler all the way back and take them off without splitting them. This is if you don't have a split master link. They're a bit of a pain to put back on but so is pounding a master pin in and out. Track frames aren't too big of a deal to remove since the bolts are big enough you can put some real torque on them. Roller bolts are another story but you're not working on them. Dave

jp1092 · May 7, 2018

I lost your contact info. I am off of Amsbury Rd and need some assistance starting my unit and fixing some leaks. Give me a call 704-7872643 Thanks

El Hombre · May 8, 2018

(quoted from post at 04:55:44 11/28/10) That sucks! I was told the sprockets on my 931B are a taper fit and can need up to a 30 ton puller to get them off. That's part of the reason I welded sprocket rims on instead of replacing the whole sprocket. Judging from Bob's answer, the sprockets can be probably left on. He would know. Dave

You did the correct repair by cutting off the worn teeth and welding a new set on. I watched a weldor do that, slick repair. I'm sure the entire sprocket, new, from the dealer would of cost triple or more just for the part.

Hate those taper fit deals. You always needed the special tool puller, which nobody outside the dealer has. Then if the joint ever slips, it galls up the tapers and then you're really in a hole getting it fixed.

Shouldn't have bragged! CAT 935C final drive

Lloyd In South Carolina

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JimInOz

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Anonymous-0

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Anonymous-0

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Anonymous-0

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NCWayne

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Lloyd In South Carolina

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Bob Bancroft

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bob plumadore

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Anonymous-0

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jp1092

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El Hombre

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