TD-14 Injector Nozzle Body

thebunns

Member
Does anyone have any hints regarding the removal of a nozzle body?  I have applied penetrating oil, heated the area with a torch, driven punches under the body with a mall and then put a floor jack under the wedged in punches while tapping on the body.  It looks like it may have raised up about 1/16", comparing it to the other three nozzle bodies.  I've got to get it out as something in it is preventing an injector from going all the way down into it.  I have looked in the body with a light but see nothing out of the ordinary.
 
i have found they stick in the head when the bottom sealing ring leaks and allows carbon to get in between . i would try some brake kleen sprayed on it . it might seep down in along side and loosen it. all depends on the top dust ring.brake kleen eats carbon.
 
For getting out carbon I have used Hoppes no9 bore solvent just don't get it on something you care about.
 
Would I have any better luck if I pulled the manifold & worked at the nozzle body from both sides? I'm trying to think ahead if including your suggestion doesn't help.
 
For what it's worth, my 1973 Motor's Truck Repair Manual shows an injector puller setup. Kind of confusing without pictures, but here goes. Thin nuts are placed under each ear and 3/8" bolts threaded in through a short bridge with 3 holes, 3/8" on either end, and the center hole threaded to accept the drawscrew. Then, a larger bridge, with 2 legs to straddle the injector body, is set down onto the drawscrew, and the pulling nut threaded on. Thus installed, the injector body is pulled upward as the nut tightened, the support for the larger bridge being the legs resting on the cylinder head. Looks like all you need is a substantial bridge and drawscrew, you could make the rest of the stuff.
 
(quoted from post at 19:01:23 02/24/18) For what it's worth, my 1973 Motor's Truck Repair Manual shows an injector puller setup. Kind of confusing without pictures, but here goes. Thin nuts are placed under each ear and 3/8" bolts threaded in through a short bridge with 3 holes, 3/8" on either end, and the center hole threaded to accept the drawscrew. Then, a larger bridge, with 2 legs to straddle the injector body, is set down onto the drawscrew, and the pulling nut threaded on. Thus installed, the injector body is pulled upward as the nut tightened, the support for the larger bridge being the legs resting on the cylinder head. Looks like all you need is a substantial bridge and drawscrew, you could make the rest of the stuff.
hile I really appreciate your description of what you're looking at in your repair manual, I'm having difficulty visualizing it. I am considering some kind of pulling mechanism as well as removing the manifold and beating the body out from the bottom. We'll see what happens. Thanks again!
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:50 02/23/18) Would I have any better luck if I pulled the manifold & worked at the nozzle body from both sides? I'm trying to think ahead if including your suggestion doesn't help.
Since writing the above statement, I've realized how dumb it was. I automatically figured that the injectors nozzles were installed in a manifold, as it sort of resembles the manifold on the other side of the engine. Now I see that it is just a part of the cylinder head. So, I guess I won't just pick the "manifold" off of the engine.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top