replacement engine for Case 1000 crawler

I have a case 1000 crawler with a continental JD382 engine. I took it apart and the webbing is cracked on the block.

What other machinery used that engine? Will a JD403 bolt right in or will it need to be some changes?

I saw online someone was restoring a MH tractor with this engine and the webbing was cracked as well. He was going to braze it somehow so he could use the block for the restoration. Is this possible and does it cost a ton of money?

Thanks for all the help.
 

The 403 is a direct replacement for the 382. If the 403 has
been a generator engine , you will have to make a cover for
tach drive port ,plate with hole and oring under it . Also
you will need the oil cooler and filter from the 382 as
many generators had remote cooler. You should dial indicate
the bell housing to make sure it is centered on the crank,so
as not to break the flex plates. Use water pump and adapter
from tractor as that raises the pump up to center of radiator.

Is your block cracked between the sleeves ? They are
repairable. I drilled from the manifold side of the engine
into the opposite inside the block ,threaded the opposite
5/16 and used a rod to pull the sides back together ,veed
and welded the cracks and left the rods in permanently. I
don't have any photos as I did that before I had a camera.

Send me an email with a phone number and what time in the
evening to call. I'll fill you in on more repairs .

george
 
We had several of the Case 1000, all of the blocks were cracked at the top of the counterbore. They never bothered any. The head gasket seals compression on the sleeve. I would not worry about it.
 
Well there are cracks between each sleeve of the engine. So 4 sleeves and 3 cracks. Not sure how the heck it happened.

One issue is after I tore it apart and replaced the rings and bearings and finally got the fuel pump figured out to get it started and running, there was quite a lot of blow coming out the valve cover breather. A fair amount of oil was also being blown out. I did not put new sleeves in as they seemed pretty good still to me. I did fail to put a thermostat in so the engine was not getting warm at all. Not even up to 140. So I figuered it needed to warm up to seat the rings. No oil in water or any problems showing at this time. I then put a 180 degree thermostat in and it got up to 185 then leveled out at 175-180. Seemed to be going all right. Was running it at a little more then an idle for about 20 min and then saw some oil coming out the radiator cap. Must have been at this time the block cracked for some reason.

Anyways that's my sob story. Spent a lot of time and money trying to get that dozer up and running to have that happen so quickly. From searches online seems like these continental engines at that time weren't very advanced with the mettalurgy? And small spaces between the sleeves made this cracking of the block at this spot pretty common.
 
Did you have the head checked for
cracks? We had cracked heads on both of
ours. That is why we saw the cracks in
the blocks. That was the reason our
last one got scrapped, because we
couldn't find a good head. I have taken
quite a few wet sleeve engines apart
for a overhaul and have found the top
counterbore cracked in between the
sleeves. Unless the engine is in
something that is being used hard
daily, I don't get too concerned about
it.
Think about it this way, the sleeves
are being held in the counterbore by
the head being tortured down(fire ring
on top of the sleeve). A wet sleeve
block has plenty of reinforcement
elsewhere. Also where that crank is,
water can come up between the sleeve
and block anyway. In an ideal world you
would go get another block, but they
are very scarce at this point and I
would guess that most of them you would
ever find would be cracked too. Hope
you can get the old 1000 going. I miss
having ours around. My quess is a
cracked head.
 
I took a good look at the head and didn't see any crack just eyeballing it. I did however turn the engine over a little with the head off and i could see oil accumulating on the top of the pistons in #1 and #2 coming from somewhere. I'm guessing the rings are bad or broken in these 2? The other 2 looked dry. I then drained the oil to see if anything showed up in the oil and havn't seen anything yet. I'll take a closer look running it through a strainer when it finishes.

Bad rings would explain the large amount of blow-by coming out the breather, but would that be enough to crack the block without cracking the head? Also the head gasket looked alright. No tears that i could see.
 

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