D3c engine replacement

Goodman

Member
Hello all. I've been on international forum for years and it has been a great resource for Farmalls. I am stepping in here seeking help on a dozer. Looking at purchasing a 1996 D3c that has thrown a rod. It has a hole in the side of the block. Unsure of the extent of internal damage but the engine only has 1800 hrs. 3 questions.

1- is it logical to attempt a inframe repair of the block and one cylinder of all other things appear ok. Would you plan on removing crankshaft to inspect for fractures etc. other advice on this route.

2- I've replaced engines in tractors trucks etc. how difficult is all this to get to? Can engine come out by itself or does trans have to come too? How many hours is involved? Any pics of this process greatly appreciated. I'll also search this forum.

3- what is a good source for reman short block and reusing all accessories on my block.

I would obviously acquire a service manual if I purchase just trying to see what I'm getting in to first.

Thanks.
 
Based on what I see, the engine is a 3046 meaning it's probably a CAT branded engine made by someone else, possibly Perkins, Mercedes, etc. I haven't run into one of them myself, but it does appear to be a sleeved engine, making it a candidate for an inframe IF the crank isn't damaged, and conditions are right.

That said, it's impossible to say a definite yea or nay on doing an inframe without knowing more about the cause of the thrown rod, the condition of the crank, etc, etc, etc., however, personally I wouldn't recommend it if you want to insure it's going to be right when your done with it.

Again I haven't run into a 3C yet, but you should be able to look at it and tell pretty easily whether the trans/torque converter (whichever it has) needs to come out with the engine. In other words, if the housing is bolted all the way round the flywheel housing, and there are no stand alone mounts on that part, then it definitely needs to come out with the engine. If it's separate, or has it's own mounts, then it should be able to stay.

That said, if it's attached, usually the easy thing is to take it all out together as it is much easier to line stuff up when it's out of the machine and both parts are movable, than it is when you've got one fixed part and the engine hanging.

As far as parts, Offroad Equipment is about the best place I know of for new, used, and aftermarket CAT parts, especially for older equipment. The other link for Engine Warehouse is one of the first ones I pulled up when I did a search for the engine model number. I've never had any dealings with them, but it looks like they know what they are doing with those engines.

Good luck. If you've got any more questions post again and I'll be glad to help where I can.
Diesel engine warehouse

offroad equipment parts
 
Ok. Thanks. Few questions.
I realize a in frame rebuild is not as perfect as a short block reman. I also realize I don't know extent of damage. But if all appears to be right why would I not do a inframe and replace sleeves and such? If there is something unreliable about it I'd like to know.

Also on what has to be removed. I removed the few access covers and really couldn't tell engine or engine and trans. I couldn't see any bolts at back of engine / bell housing. It's hard access. I was guessing since all I could see was lifting eye right behind engine and that's only one maybe it all comes together.

Thanks for your help.
 
I have a question , How can you do an "INFRAME " as you call it with a hole in the side of the block. Will or do you think you can patch the block. Truct me if it thru a rod hard enough to put a hole in the block you will at least need a grind on the crank (ie engine out ) or a replacement crank. Granted you MIGHT patch the block but doubtfully.
 
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/punt

Similar to a SWAG

IIRC Mitsubishi made the D3 I had a bit to do with so I'm guessing that they may have made the engine.

Re an in-frame

Seeing as it has put a leg out of bed what has it done to the bottom liner location machining if it has liners? And if it doesn't the bore is likely not going to be in shape for an in-frame to fix properly



Sounds dubious with a very large dub

You'll need to scrutenise with a very large scrut

(I'll translate if needed - or maybe get ignored with a very large ig)
 
Yes I can patch the block in place if that is only area of damage. I was thinking replacement was only option due to crank and such. But several local folks encouraged inframe. I'm just seeking other opinions. Hard for me to believe that hole and rod is only damage. Thanks.
 
I was on my phone the first go round and missed the part about the hole in the block. I hate to say it, but you have a boat anchor there.

The bad thing about that is if you buy a reman your going to be paying full price, PLUS the core deposit. That being the case, I would recommend spending time online and on the phone calling around to get the best price. Over the years I've found that many of these places have quite a variable on the core charges, often being hundreds of dollars apart. That being the case, a couple of hours could easily save you several hundred.

You might also want to look into just getting a core, and using it as a basis for a rebuild with the rest of your parts.

In the end there are a couple of ways to go, but it's going to take some phone work to find the best one for your particular situation. Good luck.
 
I find it hard to believe that it threw a leg out of bed and did not damage the crankshaft,buy a lottery ticket with that luck you will win and be buying a brand new dozer,don't know what in frame you neighbours are talking about,I don't think that engine has liners.
AJ
 
Need the actual s/n but that sounds like a 1996 D3C Series III unit with Mitsubishi 3046 engine and yes it has cylinder sleeves.
 
Yes the six pot has sleeves,what happened the rod,did it damage any oil galleries in the block,which side did it come through?.
AJ
 

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