bobcat 610

This message is a reply to an archived post by IowaJohn on October 21, 2012 at 20:28:05.
The original subject was "Re: bobcat 610".

A little History First:
I worked for Rental Tools and Equipment Co years ago as a driver and fix it guy. Early 70's
The Melrow Bobcat was what they rented back then and I used to work on basic repairs for them.

Bought one recently and have done the following:

Bought new tires and rims, (old ones were shot and mismatched rims)
New tires rubbed the side of the bobcat
Bought Wheel Extensions to get the tires off the side of the bobcat
New Battery
New fuel filter
Flushed fuel tank and added water removal and fuel cleaner in tank prior to flushing
New full fuel (high test)
All front and rear clutches replaced
brother in law removed old trans fluid and put in new, but now it is milky white, water crud still, plan to flush trans oil system and add New transmission oil
brother in law also rebuilt Carb with kit
Head gaskets were leaking so both have been replaced and torqued properly 22 ft pounds
Replaced fuel line hoses and put on new fuel filter
New points, condenser and plugs (ordered Electronic ignition to install when it arrives)
New starter bendix

Pressure washed it really well, cleaned out debris in heads when I replaced head gaskets (they were leaking badly but still would start and run)


Issues:

It ran at high speed with no load on it, as soon as I tried to drive it or use hydraulics it would die down and stall out if I did not let off.
It would run at idle as well.
Now it won't start,
One comment I read said something about nose down and the carb floods, I have the bucket turned way down to have the front wheels off the ground (poosible flooding)

Checked for spark and not seeing any

Also,
THe hydraulic clutch on the main engine shaft does not seem to work, can it be changed to single speed pulley?

Take one issue at a time,the first is to make sure the ignition has a spark,take off the distributor cap and turn the engine to see the points are opening and clean,if not clean remove them and clean them them evenly,put them back and adjust them to spec,with the points open switch on the ignition,with a test lamp connected to the + side of the coil the lamp should light,now connect the test lamp to the wire connected to the points the lamp should light,remove the HT cable from the centre of the distributor cap,hold it with an insulated pilers 3/4" away from a clean ground,momentarily short across the points,there should be a good sharp spark from the HT lead to ground,if so ok,note which plug lead the rotor is looking at and put the cap back on,put the ht lead back in the centre of the cap,take the plug lead the rotor was looking at from the plug and hold it close to ground,with a jumper wire connected to the wire from the coil to distributor momentarily tip it to ground while watching for spark,if it's got spark the igniton is ok,if not see the rotor or cap is not wet or cracked,see if it starts,about the carburettor flooding,if so the needle valve is not closing,clean it and check it.
AJ