Case 1150B losses power

Macdozer

New User
I got a 1150B Dozer that runs great for an hour but then it starts by losing steering clutches (wont turn usesing pedals) then eventually loses drive power to tracks. I pulled charge pump and found scoring so I replaced along with hoses and clamps but still have the same problems I did notice that I could stop the driveshaft with the center brake pedal when cold but as heated up the shaft turns all the time any direction would be great I am worried it is the clutches as once it heats up I can hear a sort of squeal sound when I am trying to reve the engine to move the dozer.
 
The shaft you see down through the floor should be spinning at all time the engine is running,the drive through that shaft is constance,it then drives both the clutches for either side independently,when you want to turn and if pedal steer the first bit you press the pedal should open the clutch dump valve and drive is disconnected from that side,press the pedal farther the brake should come on and stop the track,if the brake is coming on before the clutch is disconnected it is like trying to stall the engine,you need to see the linkage is adjusted correctly.
AJ
 
Thanks for the lead I will check in the afternoon



(quoted from post at 03:20:46 06/19/17) The shaft you see down through the floor should be spinning at all time the engine is running,the drive through that shaft is constance,it then drives both the clutches for either side independently,when you want to turn and if pedal steer the first bit you press the pedal should open the clutch dump valve and drive is disconnected from that side,press the pedal farther the brake should come on and stop the track,if the brake is coming on before the clutch is disconnected it is like trying to stall the engine,you need to see the linkage is adjusted correctly.
AJ
 
Well I was preforming the modulator test when I first hooked up the gauges I found the pressure is only 150psi and as soon as I hit the modulator pedal the pressure goes to 0. the book says the pressure is controlled by the pressure regulator any way to test it with out the hydrosluth?



 
I don't have a manual and don't know what the pressure should be put 150psi should be about right,the gauge going to zero would be normal when pressing the nudge pedal.
AJ
 
The SM says 260-290psi

(quoted from post at 15:56:46 06/19/17) I don't have a manual and don't know what the pressure should be put 150psi should be about right,the gauge going to zero would be normal when pressing the nudge pedal.
AJ
 
Sorry bout the late replies but I'm on the other side of the pond,as said before I don't have a service manual,by the reading you have the pressure is well low,you should have a look at the main regulator valve,there could be an o'ring on the body letting the oil bypass,its so long since I worked those my memory is rusty.
AJ
 
well I thought I identified the problem found the regulator spring in the valve body was 1/2 shorted then original so shamed but it changed nothing so I really need to put a flow gauge(hydra-sleuth) on the machine to do the test to identify the culprit but need to locate one first.

 
I wanted to let anyone else with issues I found the problem
the gasket in the trans control valve had blown through
between the forward/reverse and the sump dump for neutral.
a165233.jpg
 

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