Smoothing a road - i must be doing it wrong

I have an old Heston crawler with a front blade that I'm pushing dirt around with. Blade goes up and down, tilts left and right. So what's the best way to get the ground even? I'm constantly moving the blade up to keep from digging in after going through a low spot, then moving down to get the high spots. Any tricks or is that just the way it works?

years of practice, anticipating whats going to happen when lowering the blade while moving forward you will have to lift the blade anticipating when the crawler is going into the shallow hole only to lower the blade again. eventually you get a feel for it . I used to back blade a lot to even things out.

For the best results you need to back drag it. Drop the blade and run in reverse, don't have to worry about it digging in that way.

there should be a 'float' position on your blade control lever. As you are backing up this will let the blade float, which will smooth down the high areas & fill in low areas.

Thanks guys. Yes back blade helps. There is a lever that might be the float adjustment, I will have a look.

When I worked construction we called it your "But$ bubble" if it was off you couldn't grade worth a damb.
We weren't allowed to back blade, just had to carry the grade going forward.

Agreed! that is the way I was taught

Now I think they have automatic controls to do this for you.

(quoted from post at 12:52:34 06/12/17) Now I think they have automatic controls to do this for you.

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yep, they sure do, have a buddy that has his dozerpiller set up with one, 'spensive though.

There are a few things to consider. I looked at Hesston crawlersm, some with dozer blades on. The ones I saw have 5 roller track frames which helps as the longer track frames will provide a better balanced tractor for dozer work. Ag crawlers typically have smaller idlers (large roller in front of track frame) compared to larger idlers for tractors built for a dozer blade. Ag tractors turn a lot, so the smaller ones make that easier.

What you describe is the washboard effect. You need to start out in a level cut or that washboard will continue as you react to the feel of the blade and tractor, it digs in when you don't want it to, and does not cut when you do.

Dozers will vary widely when they have some age on them. Loose control linkages, worn blade components can make grading miserable. New tractor, everything is tight, a new operator can learn easily just because everything is tight.

How about the pitch of the blade ? Is the blade adjusted to aggressively ? If adjustable, it could be done by the braces that support it if its just a tilt blade with push arms on each track frame.

This skill can take time to learn, every dozer operator will have experienced this when they were new or on an old worn out tractor. Even with a new tractor, try cutting heavy sod, it may do the same thing, very much so with worn blade components, first it peels up, then the blade rides over the cut, washboard effect starts and can't be stopped. Less of a cut over longer areas is best, too much will gouge and not cut evenly.

Is the road hard packed and you are trying to grade it ? Might need to be scarified with a multi shank ripper first.

Loose material will be the easiest to grade, just pay attention to the end bits on the blade to insure material is spilling off each side, when it stops, time to back up and get another blade full.

The operator will always feel the balance right in the seat and instinctively raise or lower the blade. I know it to be true having been a full time operator for 5 years, old timers always said the same as below, just takes some time to adjust.

I see you have a six-way blade,, when working a roadway it is much easier to control if you angle the blade, this will cut out the wash boards you have in it and does a better job of laying and packing the gravel/roadway,, I could give you more but I think at this point one new way is enough,, it is also best to have the leading edge of the blade when angled just a bit higher than the heal of the blade (the end closest to you) I never recomend trying to "grade a roadway" with the blade straight, but it all depends on what you are doing, I work the road moving the windrow to the center of the road, or the edge if the road is narrow, then bring the windrow back again then the last pass I will feather out the windrow and I always have the center of the road higher than the edges so it will shed water
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Thanks again guys. I had much better luck today using your suggestions. Here's the road I'm working on and the old Heston. I have the other tractor with drag box for final grading.