dresser TD7G left carry frame

it appears i broke the left carry frame on my TD7G. has anyone ever removed one to change / repair? i'm not a mechanic, but it looks like it clamps to rear crossbar, and maybe pins to front crossbar. rops is attached to it as well. i appreciate any help or ideas to remove for repair.thanks. mike
 
You will have to split the track,the frame is held on by the pivot shaft bracket in front of the sprocket and to the crossbar by bolts bout half way to the front,your best bet is to get a heavy equipment welder to have a look before you do anything as he may be able to repair it in situ,where did it break,a photo would be handy as someone on here will have encountered such a failure and will be able to advise you what to do.
AJ
 
aj the back of frame is built with about a 45 degree angle to it. it appears that angled plate that ties the 2 sides together has broke. does not look like it came loose, but looks like it has broke in half vertically. i'll clean the machine up, and have someone take a look. thanks aj
 
aj
took your advice and got a couple welders out here to look at the job. they both laughed at me. looks like the track is coming apart. any pointers on driving out the master link? thanks
 
aj
i've been thinking all day about my reply earlier today. i did not mean to say getting welders to look at the damage was a bad idea. what i should have said was the welders can't fix it in place as it's too damaged. carry frame needs to be removed for repair. hope i didn't offend you aj. mike
 
No worries I did not see either post till now,to split the track first find the master pin,it differs from the rest,it may have a dimple in the center or a raised center,then you need to make a drift (punch) to drive the pin out,the usual thing to do is get a suitable length of iron bar a bit smaller than the pin and weld a handle to it so a helper can hold it while you hit it with a 14lb hammer,both of you wear eye protection,have the master link at 25 to in front of the front idler,do not hit the pin directly as this can have a riveting effect and swell the pin,heat may have to be used if its very tight,on the other hand you may have the new style SAL track with a split link that link differs from the rest it is solid,you just remove the track pad over it and it splits.
AJ
 
You know how to identify the master links? They have a divot machined into the end of them, and usually a more rounded corner on the master pin than a regular pin. Get it so that the master pin is right in the center of the rear of the sprocket, about shin or knee height. Take the pad off ABOVE the master link. Make sure you leave the pad bolted to the links that the master pin is driven into, or the links will just spread or bounce when you try driving it apart. Make a "pin hmer" out of 1" rod. A pin hammer is basically a large L. A handle you hold onto about 30 or so inches long, and the short part of the L is about 12 inches long. You weld the handle onto the short part of the L about an inch away from the end, so you are hitting directly on the same rod that is against the master pin, not the handle you are holding. WATCH FOR METAL CHIPS!!!!. Be sure to wear safety glasses. I did UC work for quite a few years and have plenty of metal in my srms from beating out master pins on heavy equipment. Place the short end of your pin hammer on the master pin and hammer away with a sledge. Usually a master pin will be sticking out an 1/8th of an inch or so from the link, hit directly on the master link with the sledge first until it is flush with the link. Hit it square and don't swedge the end of the pin. Usually once you get that initial 1/8" of movement, they'll come out pretty easy. My hammer of choice was a 6 pounder with the handle cut down to 24", that allowed me to hold the pin hammer with one hand and swing with my other hand, as I was working by myself most of the time. That same setup will work all the way up to a PC400 track, I took many, many of those off by myself. If you have to hest the links, that's fine, just heat the pin boss around the master pin. Probably be a good idea to replace the master pin as well. To reinstall the track, first loosen the track adjuster fitting, put a rag over it, and push the adjuster back with a block of wood between the blade and the idler. Then push the track under the dozer, bushing end first, and pull it up and over all the way to the same position on the sprocket that you took it off at. Drive master pin in, adjust track, put pad back on, and done.

Ross
 
We ran the master down between the idler and front roller. Had a jig made from an old draw bar and a freestall neck rail clamp. The piece of old pickup axle slid through it at the right height for the pin. Stand on the draw bar and swing with the sledge. Then fire up the machine and back up.

You'll need 2 small pieces of bar stock with a threaded hole, and a short bolt to fit it. You need to clamp the bushings in the outer part of link so that the other one will slide into it, when it goes back together.

Its not a bad idea to replace the grease seal on the adjuster while you have it apart. Slide it off the rail with the wishbone, and put air to the hole you unscrew the grease fitting from. Easy does it, because the piston will shoot out of there. And don't push it back too far, it will go past the port where the grease comes in behind it, and only grease goes back forward.

The 6-way blade and a chunk of wood can be used to push the idler back.
Make sure to pump enough grease in to move the idler forward before putting the track back on.

A piece of broom handle comes in handy, layed it across something there while pulling the ends back together. If I was there I could probably do it, but can't explain it. Been 10 years since I was in on doing a track on the 8G.
 
broke the tracks, got broken frame and broken tie bolt out. it was a nice break, meaning just a little cleanup and the parts fit up nice. damaged a few hydraulic lines when the rear of carry frame lifted up. patched then for now. it was a lot harder to get repaired frame back in than it was to get out haha. thanks for all of the advice. mike
 

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