Jd 350 hydraulic reverser

I have a John Deere straight 350 that loads up when you put the reverser in the reverse position but free in the forward position and it grinds into gear with the clutch in
 
reverse was always weak in those compared to straight 350. Could barely back up a 45 degree slope.
 
Reverse is just as strong as forward when the thing is working correctly. Makes no difference if a 1010, 350, 350B, 350C, etc.

One weak spot in the 1010s and first 350s is the counter-bearing that sits between the input shaft and output shaft. When it gets burnt up, forward still works, but reverse just bogs it down and the gears clash when you push in the clutch pedal.
 
There is a large belville (sp) spring in the forward clutch. It has a history of breaking up after many hours and when it does it stacks up in there and keeps forward engaged. Results, usually have forward, wants to travel forward in neutral and stalls in reverse.
Remove, rebuild and reinstall is the cure.
Check external issues first, like pressures etc.
Dennis
 
I have rebuilt many Deere reversers in 1010, 350, 350B, and 350C crawlers. I have never seen any "bellevile" spring inside anywhere. Clutch
packs have no springs at all. Just clutch disks and a piston. Lube oil that runs around 20-30 PSI helps them release. Tell me where there
is this spring in this diagram.
a152094.jpg
 
I have 110 psi on rotater valve in neutral when I put the reverser in forward it drops to 60 then jumps back to 110. Same for the reverse position but when it jumps to 110 it try's to kill the engine. I tested the 25 psi relief in the angle casted front top 1/8" pipe plug. Is this the correct spot? I had 5-10 psi. Shimmed the relief spring with washers and got it to read 15 psi. I'm guessing I had low relief pressure and my forward clutch was dragging until it locked the clutch. Let me know if this sounds right.
 
You are doing everything correctly. I've had some that only run 10-15 PSI on lube-release pressure and still work okay. 1010 crawlers had a low lube pressure warning light that came on if pressure dropped below 8 PSI. I suspect you have either a burned up centerbearing (common failure spot) or warped/burnt front clutches. Either way, it would have to come all apart to fix. If the gears clash even with the clutch pedal down, and main hydraulic pressure drops to zero - then you know you have mechanical drag.

Note that 350s usually got updated when being fixed to a larger center-bearing. Some something to keep in mind if shopping for used parts. Typically the input shaft/clutch-drum gets changed to a 350B style.

If you push the clutch pedal in and pressure stays at 110-120 PSI - repost.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top