68 john deere crawler injector removal

motomojo

Member
Hello all i have a 68 John Deere 350 Crawler i need to pull the injectors out of but don't know how any help please
 
What engine trouble do you have? If it runs a bit, looses power and dies but restarts after a few minutes you may have fuel supply and/or injection pump trouble. Need more info..
 
Won't start when i crank it fuel runs out the oil dipstick tube.
I replaced the Injector pump last Feb and have checked the lift pump and it is fine.
I think i have an injector stuck open and it is allowing fuel into the crank.
Last time i used it it started fine but was running pretty sluggish and there was a bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust
so i shut it down. Next time i tried to start it just got a stream of fuel coming out the dipstick tube.
Need to know what special tool (mentioned in the manual but no part number or discription) is needed to remove the injectors so i can get them checked and see which one or more needs service or replacement.

Thank you
 
I doubt it's an injector, but the injection pump rear shaft seal rolled back on installation, that's more common. Could also be a leak between the pump housing pilot tube and housing if it was replaced, I've seen them leak when sealer other than the recommended epoxy is used. If an injector is stuck open the engine will knock loudly when running. If one cylinder is extremely low on compression the unburned fuel from that cylinder will go two ways, out the exhaust, and some past the rings into the crankcase while running. Have seen that happen before.
 
The injector is called a pencil injector..
it takes a special removal tool to properly remove them w/o bending them.
It IS possible to do it w/o the tool but not recommended.
IF there is a parts store close by, you might be able to borrow the tool.
The tool on the web is around 120.00
 
If you are not worried about ruining the old injectors - a small lady-slipper pry-bar with a rocker-end works. In fact, in all the Deere shops I worked in - we used the pry bar more often then the official OTC slide-hammer puller. I doubt the injector is the problem though. It cannot just dump fuel in there and fill up the crankcase no matter how bad.

Like the other guy said - more likey you inverted one of the umbrella seals on the pump-shaft. One faces towards the pump and the other faces towards the engines. The one facing the pump inverts very easy when installing the pump unless you are very careful.
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Fuel getting into the engine oil can be from the fuel transfer pump on the side of the block. That's the easiest and cheapest thing to check first.
 
Thank you for the info on the tools.
I to now feel that it must be the pump seal cos i just don't see how an injector could put so much fuel in the crank.
I had a certified Mech put in the new pump so maybe he will come fix his mistake...Right!
I think i will not pull the injectors at this point but investigate the pump seal further.
 
Do you know where i can purchase the seal compression tool.
Or is that something an auto parts store may have for loan or rent.
 
Thank you for the info
I am now feeling it's the pump an injector couldn't put that much fuel in the crank.
I hired a certified Mech to put the new pump on so maybe he will come fix his mistake.
 
$5 at US Diesel but it can be done without the tool if careful. That - assuming there is no ridge worn into the pump drive bushing. Stanadyne # 13371

http://www.usdiesel.com/used_equipment.php?equipmentType=2&sortBy=name&sortDirection=ASC
 
The brass tubes I epoxy into the pump housing use a more gradual taper for the rear seal to enter, making the seal compressor tool unnecessary. The secret to the rear seal is if it enters the tube correctly, pump will slide easily in place. If the seal is rolled over pump will need much more force to slide it on. I purposely slide the pump back and forth a couple times to make sure seal is not rolled over and pinched. Make sure the tube ID is not grooved badly where the seals ride, that will cause trouble too. Very seldom see a brass tube that does not need replaced anymore.
 
What bushing do you use? OEM Stanadyne and aftermarket Spaco from Italy is what I use and both have the same tapered end. It is there to ease installation but the seal can certainly still be folded over if a lot of care is not used.
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Use the same bushings, but change the taper where the seal enters to the similar angle the steel bushings have on a lathe before tube is epoxied in the housing. Noticed years ago the seal entered the steel bushings with little trouble on AC, IH and JD pumps that had the steel tube because of the more gradual entrance angle. Brass tubes were always more of a challenge because of the steeper bevel they come with.
 
I always tie the throttle wide open with wire before I try installing a Roosa Master pump. It will keep the throttle shaft seals from rolling over so easily.
 
It sounds like you've moved past thinking the injectors are the problem, but for others that may read this in the future. If an injector could dump that much fuel it would hydro lock the engine first. No way that much fuel can get down past the rings that quickly.
Good luck
 

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