350C injector pump rebuild

Tim redd

New User
I need to have my 350c pump rebuilt any suggestions on a good repair shop or person would be greatly appreciated or if any is interested please supply a quote. The dozer was running OK when I removed the pump.The return line was getting plugged with fines from governor .
Thanks TR
 
I talked to you earlier, will call you back later this evening. E-mail is open on Classic if you want to get in contact that way in case I wrote the number down wrong..
 
Somebody with experience ought to be able to throw a seal kit into that pump with a hour's worth of work. You're taking $20-$30 in parts unless you want to spend an
extra $50 to eliminate that plastic weight-retainer ring forever.
 
Mr JDEM, I have read posts from you over the years on working on pumps. You seem very educated, and I guess you are talented as well. I would love an opportunity to watch you whip a pump into shape. I have done hundred and hundreds of Roosa pumps and have never been able to get the job done in an hour. I spend more time than that just cleaning an hand buffing each housing and related parts. Any Good pump man will bench test and pressure test EVERY pump after reassembly. This alone eats up 1/2 hour. This also eliminates any guess by gosh results. You are correct, seal kits are not a lot of money, but I question "throwing" A seal kit in within 1 hour. I fear If I tried to get one done in an hour, it would look like, and run like a pump done in one hour. Al
 
We had a pump stand at work at two Deere dealerships I worked at. That being said, if a pump crapped out on a machine we knew had been running well - and all the problem was - was a broken plastic weight-retainer ring? Usually, we (or I) did not take the time to mount on a stand and test. Just an an un-needed extra expense. Especially on a Deere since the timing-advance can be easily adjusted on a running machine. And yes, an hour on the bench or tailgate of a truck. No need to try to clean the pump up so it had the appearance of being "rebuilt." Just a matter of fixing what was wrong. On a 350C (keep in mind they were near new at the time) -all that was usually needed was a $20 seal-kit and often new pump vanes, and a new metering valve IF the old one showed wear. If the drive-end bushing had a deep ridge in it - then the job took more time since a new bushing needed to be epoxied in. Older pumps like a DBG instead of a JDB also needed an update to the fuel-pressure regulator that took maybe and extra 10 minutes. All that entails is a metal bushing that gets driven in to replace the black rubber plug that blows out.

I cannot think of anything inside that pump that if worn - cannot be seen with the naked eye. Parts-fit are by "feel" since tolerances are too close for any micrometer. All a test stand does is verify you did the job right - or show advance which can be adjusted without the stand - or fuel delivery that can also be adjusted without the stand. Like I said, if the machine was known to run well until it quit - such things were not concerns. A 2" micrometer will tell you where max fuel delivery is anyway -although some machine owners want the delivery set a little higher.

Hey, to each his own. I've done plenty that way with no problems that I am aware of. I usually eliminate the plastic "pellathane" ring since it is a trouble maker. GM and Ford had it eliminated in all the pumps on 6.2s, 6.9s, and 7.3s in 1985. Deere should of done the same but did not. Last one I did was on my own Deere 300B. I put in the solid-metal replacement on that JDB pump. Cars and trucks with DB2 pumps get something a little different called the "EID". Stands for "elastomer insert drive" as I recall.
 
Mr JDEM. Am I correct to read that you feel a test bench is a Unnecessary cost? Funny how ALL reputable pump shops have them. Must be they dint go to John Deere pump school. My first bench came from a JD dealership so some must have thought they were useful. Most all of the JD dealerships have discontinued servicing pumps. Maybe they had some problems with the techs who felt they didn't need test Equipment. I would like you to explain how you can catch a worn rotor or carbon veins with your eye. I agree a mic wont do the job, But a slow speed turn on the stand does it in seconds. Roller to roller dia. works with new, or tight heads. What about fuel delivery on older units that are good enough to make start fuel, but do not put out The proper CC @ 1000? Not all guys who request a pump repair know their pump history. Some pumps have been fiddled with by the guy who had been encouraged to turn this or that screw two owners ago. Now this new owner thinks it ran just fine, but didnt realize it should have run, or started much better. The tail gate pump man does his one hour repair and reinstalls the greasy mess so it runs as good as it did before problem X. Not running right. If I take time to pull a pump, then pay for it to be fixed, I would want it to be fixed correctly. Not hodge podged to just run again. Guess I take to much pride in my work. I fell a professional job should look, and run like one. My family has been here on this same road for 5 generations. I use my REAL name and my same phone # I have had for over thirty years. If I did poor work, or offered bad, or miss leading advise I would have to move somewhere else because an upset guy much bigger than me would hunt me up. Like you said each to his own. I will continue to build pumps in my shop, and use a test stand. Please continue to tell people how simple a tail gate pump repair is. I will continue to clean up the train wrecks sent to me in a bag.,,, Al
 
Hi Al, bet you see a few pumps like I do that need repaired because dad let "junior" try to "fix" it too. Still curious as to why some call the 29111 sharp heel retainer solid, when it's an EID design like the round heel 27984 is. Fellas have to remember as these pumps have been around forty years plus, some have been apart before. That's why I tear each one completely down like you do and start over, who knows what "Bubba" did to it..
 
Still blows me away how I can do a simple reseal that seems straight forward and nothing new. I put it on the stand and it will not come alive. I always wonder how the guy without the stand would have caught this one. Can do 20 in a row like clock work, then "bam" this one is a problem child. My favorite is when you go to pull it down all the bolts and fittings are loose. You know someone has been in there before you. I call these STDs. Some one else, Tore it , Down. Your right about age, Look at how old the IH 560 or early D17 pumps are. Getting close to 60! Think how many gallons of water and bad fuel they have eaten over the years and still working? We used to build some really good stuff here. Shame we shipped it all off. Al
 
If you want to argue something with me - why not pick something I actually said instead of making something up. I never said a test-stand is not necessary. Obviously pump shops get a pump to work on and no tractor to go with it. I said that in the case of having the complete tractor to test when done - a pump stand is not an essential item, for a John Deere 350 with a DBG or JDB pump. Stop putting words in my mouth. It is a silly way to argue a point.
 
Mr JDEM. Have you ever seen a tail gate repair run away? I have , it can be really exciting. Also VERY expensive. Ever see a tail gate job sent in a bag to you to sort out and make run again? I have. Not very exciting, but almost always expensive. To a seasoned mechanic using the engine as a test bench is one thing. To the part time/ week end warrior it can be a disaster. I try to help guys out any way I possibly can. But to encourage someone to do something that can easily turn into a expensive disaster I don't agree with. I have castrated many animals. Cows, pigs, Dogs, Barn cats, even helped the vet do a few horses. Does this mean I should start doing a home vasectomy? How about I leave that to the MDs. Thats their specialty. I know to you its silly to argue a point, but it wasn't YOUR money that paid to fix the bagged train wrecks. The ones you encouraged to tackle on the tailgate. Thats MY point. Al
 
(quoted from post at 16:00:29 10/25/16) Somebody with experience ought to be able to throw a seal kit into that pump with a hour's worth of work. You're taking $20-$30 in parts unless you want to spend an
extra $50 to eliminate that plastic weight-retainer ring forever.

Hi, I'm from Australia and new to this forum. Could you help me with a supplier to obtain fuel pump kit and eliminate retainer ring?

Thank you.
 
Try U. S. Diesel, they are in Ft. Worth, Texas. Website www dot usdiesel dot com, ph 800 3two8 0037.
 
(quoted from post at 01:26:55 11/21/16) Try U. S. Diesel, they are in Ft. Worth, Texas. Website www dot usdiesel dot com, ph 800 3two8 0037.

Thank you for the reply.
 

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