ford 4500 loader backhoe inframe??

glennster

Well-known Member
friend has a '75 ford 4500 loader backhoe, 201 3 cyl diesel. engine is pretty tired and he was thinking on doing an inframe o/h on the engine, but it looks like there is no way to get the oil pan off without splitting the tractor, as the loader frame is in the way. kind of looks like maybe the cab comes off then you would have to pull the engine up and out. anybody ever work on one of these?? he is getting fuel in the oil, just had a new injection pump and all injectors replaced. tia.
 
I cannot tell you how to get the oil pan off,the fuel in the oil could be the heater thermoplug plug in the manifold or the feed pump diaphragm.
AJ
 
I over hauled one about 10 years ago, you have to pull the engine to do it as they are not a wet sleeved block you have to bore them, I raised the loader up to the top and held it up with my over head hoist, then removed the front axle radiator ect then engine, it was not as bad a job as it looks like
cnt
 
It can be done. front support has to come off to pull pan. Getting loader out of way is problem. Loader keeps front end on ground. I have 2 of them gonna try to make 1 if got enough good parts.
 
I believe those have the umbrella seal on the input shaft of the pump. If he's getting fuel in the oil, the seal got screwed up when the pump was installed.

As far as doing an in frame, if it's as tired as you indicate, he's wasting his time. I say this because an in frame doesn't allow him to do anything to the main bearings but roll new ones in. IF the crank isn't hurt, that's not a bad thing, but if there is any wear in the crank at all, it means he's putting the engine back together with a new top end, and a worn out bottom end, even with new bearings in place.

As far as pulling the engine, which is he best bet, you have to take the loader frame loose from the hard nose/radiator shroud. Since the front axel has to be removed also off, let the end of the frame rails rest on blocks once the shroud is removed. With it, and the radiator itself out of the way, the engine can come forward, up, and out. Basically like you'd pull one in a car. I can't remember exactly which models I have done, but they have all come apart the way I describe just fine.

Good luck.
 
NCWayne is exactly right. I did a 455C with a 201 last winter. It had been overheated and scored the pistons. No machine shop around here would bore it without boring, sleeving, and reboring it back to standard, due to the cavitation issues they were known for. On the 455, I was able to run the loader all the way up in my shop, block the cylinders, then pull front axle, nose weight, hard nose, radiator, etc. Then I was able to remove the engine for the major rebuild. Only one screw up was they sent me pistons for a ?172?, had a taller compression height, although same bore. Having head rebuilt, crank polished, block decked, bored-sleeved-rebored, rods reconned, was $1187. Put in new injectors (pretty cheap), new rod bolts, and new head bolts.

Ross
 

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