"Frozen" D4 in shop

'47 D4 sat outside all its life. Stuck in neutral, totally junk but was gifted it by FIL after it sat 15 years. Dumbly thought I would restore it. Took big Case endloader and lowboy winch to get it on the truck, took two old farm tractors to pull it back over the 'hump' to get it off. Sat outside for a couple of years. Took IH 450 to pull/push it with SC pulling it sideways to line it up with shop. Shop has a new 6" x 24" rebarred floor with very smooth finish. Pushed old crawler easily into shop rolling on old carpets. Sat on carpet for 10 years, tried to pull the crawler out with 450- wouldn't budge and floor too slippery to pull much.
Now question what went stuck. Steering levers move. Lifted and chained up dozer to clear floor. Don't want to spray kerosene or other all over trackage in this shop. Am trying to pull track with a come-a-long hooked to front frame back (with chain) over rear sprocket where track plates are separated enough to get a chain hook on it. Admittedly wimpy come-a-long but not much has budged.
Questions for anyone: what are the odds that it is seized tracks, or some internal seizure? I don't want to scratch/score my nice floor. There is 20' clearance in this quonset, would a semi truck wrecker be able to lift this 6 ton D4 enough to get some kind of wheels under it? I hope not to compound my stupidity any further : ( IaLeo

Tracks seize and they get real stiff without seizing too. Usually smacking them hard with a BFH will show if they actually seized or just stiff. By that I mean the upper part of the track where it's not against anything solid. Usually if you get the engine going and put it in gear you can limp the track around and smack it as it starts around the bull wheel or idler and it'll break loose if it's got a chance. The crawler itself is the best way to loosen them up.

If you can raise a side you can put planks under it and skid it on them.

I never saw the D4 run, nor used it. But an idea here on the thread about a brake band caused me to look see if one of the grandchildren playing on it set the brake. There is a clutch?lever that moves freely, two steering levers and two foot pedals that appear to be steering brakes, but no parking brake??????, How did that 6U636 get by without a parking brake? Thanks, Leo.

Good call!... frozen or ice in the final drives can do that.

Early U series, 44" narrow gauge. I may have a book in my collection for one of this era as I collect the military technical manuals for old caterpillars as a hobby and for reference to help others when possible. I'd have to find it and look but I do not believe any of these of that period would have a means to lock a brake mechanically, more or less set the ground engaging part of it down, and shut off in gear with the clutch engaged. Not good if kids were to play on it. A friend had one of that era, but its been so long since I've been on one of that period, you forget some of the details unless you have owned one.

Makes you wonder what they did with ag tractor version if parked on a slope. I even forget how these work for the various modeles,on the D7 from then, you pull a lever and push a pedal on the same side to steer sharp, one of those components definitely has a brake band.

These may or may not help, but worth a try. I have a later model D4. The steering clutches may be frozen up but that will not stop the machine from rolling as long as the transmission is in neutral. So it is either the track chains are rusted up or the brake bands are rusted to the clutch housing. Grab a track pad about 2/3 way up the rear drive sprocket and see if it has any motion as you rock it back and forth. If it has motion I doubt the tracks are rusted up. Look on the back of the rear end for two plates up near the top. Under the plates is where you would adjust the brake bands, back them off and push them in with a hammer and punch. Then push the machine backwards and see if the bands will release ( pulling it forward will not release the bands). Good luck and post back your results.

my 7U has teeth on the bottom of one brake pedal and a little lever cog that hooks in to hold it down and keep the brake applied

Thought of one other thing to do. Under the rear end housing their may be a plug about 2" +/-, one on each side to the steering clutch cavity. Remove them and you should be able to reach up in with a bar to help break the bands free if your machine is similar to the later ones.

I was wondering about something like that on these, the D7 from that period has nothing to do that, well maybe I've missed something too lol, but I could not recall from my friends D4 of that period.