Replacing chain on Dozer - Dresser TD7G

Headrc

New User
Hi New here with a question regarding my Dresser Td7G. I discovered the right side bushings were shot worn through on the track side of the bushing on one side, but the left are OK. I took it to my local Komatsu/Dresser dealer to have the Bushings turned on that right track. The track guy said I can't do anything with this, it is too far gone. Why the right would be that way and the left is Ok who knows, I am not the original owner. It has Berco chain on it now. The question is, if I have to replace the right chain,is that Ok and leave the left? Or am I faced with replacing both? The dozer is my occasional use farm machine. When it is used,it can be on steep hills here in Tennessee and gets a workout. It has served me well and is a strong running machine for what I need. The other question of course is if I replace one chain, is it Ok for aftermarket rather than Berco chain? Also, what about the sprocket, do I really need to replace that? Pictures attached of the sprocket, idler and rock guard w/bolts. None of actual chain because it is a local repair shop right now. Notice how rock guard bolt bushings are worn, that is similar to bushings on chain to be replaced. Photos are current, the date on camera was set wrong. Thanks for the response in advance. RH
28804.jpg
28805.jpg
28806.jpg
28807.jpg
28808.jpg
28809.jpg
28810.jpg
 
He's right, once the bushings get worn completely through, there is no repairing them. As far as replacements, BERCO used to be considered an aftermarket supplier (and still are so some extent as compared to, say CAT), and could be had for an economical price as opposed to the OEM tracks. As the company grew, and their product line grew, they became more mainstream, so to speak, and are now used as OEM tracks on many brands. Needless to say, their prices now reflects that growth, and use. As far as a new set of rails, there are several other aftermarket suppliers out there, that will cost far less than BERCO, and most any of them will work just fine.

As far as the rest of the undercarriage, the idlers look good, and the bottom rollers look good. The sprockets probably have a little wear, but should also be OK for a long time given your running conditions.

If it were mine, or belonged to one of my customers, I'd say put the pads on a new set of rails, and get the 'ole girl back to work. Good luck.
 
I agree the rollers look fine for now.
Do think the sprocket is really worn and needs to be replaced.
You don't really want to mesh that sprocket with a new chain.
There's no Flats left between segments. there almost pointed.
I have seen much worse but your already there. Change it.
My 02
Tom
 
Thanks for the response. So two different opinions on the sprocket I guess, but the best case scenario is I replace it as well. What about just doing one side instead of two? The other side the bushings are a little flat but are not worn through. Thanks, RH
 
Personally I would do both sides and be done with it.
If one side was as bad as it was the other can't be far behind.
As soon as your done before you know it you'll be doing it again.

Just because the bushing isn't worn through, the pin and inside are very worn.

How much did your track snake(bend) to the side when you removed it?
New tracks won't bend at all, but worn ones will.
That's what causes them to come off especially on slope's
Tom
 
the left side was probably replaced or turned already--if it was mine i would just do the right side with aftermarket---the sprockets are worn but have plenty of ours left in them
 
Thanks. BTW, I looked at the sprocket on the left side today and felt the bushings. That sprocket looks about the same as the one pictured, but the bushings feel like they have a lot of life in them. At least to this novice.
 
Sprockets are cheap compared to the rest. Change sprockets with chains. If the left is usable and the usage is low then leave it alone.
My opinion if it were mine.
Dennis
 
First of all you need to measure the pitch on the remaining rail. They usually do not wear the same but if one is badly worn the other will not be far behind. I will wager that it is worn passed 100%. If you put a new rail on one side the tractor will not track straight, it will be turning all the time. The sprockets do not look bad but they are usually changed with new chains. Worn chains wear sprockets, worn sprockets do not wear chains (much).
 
to more accurate check the pin and bushing wear is to measure the distance across on 5 pins with the track in tension
either by a come along or back the machine up and measure the top track. this will tell you the relative wear between the two tracks
 
Ok ?I can do that on the left side since it is still intact and tensioned. What kind of measurement am I looking for exactly?
 
my spec sheet shows for a TD7--24.01 inches new
24.14 25% worn
24.25 50% worn
24.40 75% worn
24.60 100% worn
 
Well ?the current development now is that I have been told that if I put new sealed dry chain on and only run it occasionally, the chain could freeze up and the pins would have to be pushed out and reseated. Meaning i will have to put at least 200-300 hours on the dozer a year to prevent this. Candidly, I don't think this amount of use will happen. The advice is then to put on SALT track which is really not a lot more money except for one big issue. I cannot use my old pads because of the lack of SALT track that will accommodate my older pads. So of course this means replace both tracks for sure, with all new pads etc. So with this information, anybody have input on this information about new dry chain rusting/freezing up if it is not used a lot. This sure makes this an expensive decision if true.
 
I also have a TD7G. I need to break the tracks to address an track tensioner issue. do you have any pointers on getting the master link out? thanks
 

Frozen dry tracks are a real possibility.
Years ago I put new tracks on a IH TD 8E that sat a lot.
They would get stiff and start to freeze.
So I kept them sprayed with a diesel/old oil mix.
I would move the tractor around the yard every so often
to keep them free.

Also have a case 1000D that had new rails put on a long time ago and neglected.
The tracks have many frozen links to the point it's almost impossible to sit in the seat.
Recently started trying to free them without much luck I might add.
Tom
 
I think its more of an issue of how often you run the machine to flex the tracks rather than the total number of hours.
also do you clean the tracks and undercarriage after each use which helps a lot. Is it stored under a roof?
My machines get used 50 to 100 hours per year and occasionally I get one link frozen up---a couple sprays of penetrating oil, a couple whacks with a sledge hammer and run the machine it all becomes loose again.I only get to run my machines about once a month
 
The pins on mine were welded in, and I mean WELDED! Not just spot welded. Once I ground off the welding they actually came out pretty easy with a small sledge and an old part of a shaft that I used to drive them out. But if yours are harder to get out, there is a ball joint press that will span it and possibly push it out. The forum would not let me post a lin k here for it, but look for large ball joint press on Amazon. It is an OTC 6736. I bought it and did use it after the pins on both sides got pinched when punning them out. The track tensioner is how my whole problem started! Hope this helps.
 
Also, I am going to refresh this thread a little bit and hopefully all you guys can be patient with me. I picked up my new (gulp) SALT chains, sprockets and pads yesterday and hope to get them all installed this weekend. In speaking with the service department about my old tracks they told me that they were mounted backwards and that is one of the reasons the bushings and pins wore out. Now I did not mount them originally. So for the new ones how do you know how to mount them, meaning what is front and back on the chain? It is an alligator clip chain as opposed to my previous master pin arrangement. The indication I got was that the grouser on each pad should towards the back of the chain. Is this how you know if you have it mounted correctly? Thanks again, RH
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top