skidmark13
Member
310G diesel, 6way blade. I have the left front idler wheel off for a bearing replacement. The track tensioner threaded rod/bolt, middle nut (the threaded disk with the spanner wrench holes)and rear nut are all frozen solid. Can't get the spring out. The rod/bolt won't turn, the middle nut won't turn, the front nut wrench faces are wiped off so I had to use a pipe wrench to back it off. The spring should just come right out but, no go. If there's a nut on the back screwed onto the back end of the bolt that makes no sense, there wouldn't be any spring action. I'll have to take out the 8 bolts and remove the whole casing to see what's up. I don't like the design so I'm going to convert it to the system used on my 310E where the bolt passes through the middle disk so you compress the spring with a nut just in front of the disk and adjust track tightness with a nut just behind the idler carrier. Also on the G the front nut, the one that sits inside the idler carrier hole, is threaded with a nut behind that to hold it's place, on the E the bolt passes through with a nut behind it to hold it's place. I like the E system much better, you can adjust the spring tension and track tightness separately.
I'll wait on removing the spring casing while I work on the idler bearing problem to see if someone here knows what's going on inside the spring casing, why the front and middle nuts are threaded and what the rear nut on the back of the casing actually does.
I'll wait on removing the spring casing while I work on the idler bearing problem to see if someone here knows what's going on inside the spring casing, why the front and middle nuts are threaded and what the rear nut on the back of the casing actually does.