188 cummins torque procedure?

Case450 · Jan 30, 2015

My '65 Case 450C crawler w/ 188 cummins diesel is getting the new headgasket installed today. My book says to torque the head studs 110-115 ft/lbs of torque.

My question is do I simply install the brand new studs and torque them to 115 ft.lbs or ???
There is no turbo or anything. It's the naturally aspirated motor.

AJ. · Jan 30, 2015

The engine should be a Case 188,by the rule of thumb the best way to tighten head bolts is in three steps,divide the finish torque by three roughly so go 40,80 and 115,make sure the bolt holes are clean,lightly oil the bolt threads.
AJ

Case450 · Jan 30, 2015

AJ, which bolts do I remove to take the head
everything off all at once?

AJ. · Jan 30, 2015

Get a strip of cardboard and punch eight holes in it in a line,mark one end of the card front,remove the rocker shaft from the head,take out the push rods in sequence from front to back and put them in the card that ensures they go back in the same place,undo the 19 bolts from the head,I can't remember exactly what brackets and other stuff has to be undone so have a good look for pipes and wires etc,have something ready that won't damage anything on the underside of the head when you leave it down,the valves and injector tips can stick out a little bit and get damaged,so count the head bolts and you have them all out if you got 19.
AJ

Case450 · Jan 30, 2015

Alright so start peeling everything from the top down.
I guess I was thrown off because the dealer sent me new head studs but he sent 8. When the valve cover came off I counted like 15 or something. My parts book isn't much help either. It shows one. lol

I'll have another go at it after supper. Much obliged!

AJ. · Jan 30, 2015

I am not aware that the head bolts were to be changed on that engine and especially when a torque is stated,usually stretch bolts are tighten by degrees,but things may have changed,in the picture I have of the tightening sequence the head is the other way about from your picture,the bolts are not shown just the holes they go in,from I to 19.
AJ

Case450 · Jan 30, 2015

That diagram is perfect. I will be printing that off in the morning to add to my book.

I am likely mistaken but do you mean that the head bolts don't have to be changed or that when new ones are used they should be tightened with a degree wheel? I don't know myself. Just kinda stumbling along in the dark here.

I have all of the bolts and everything removed except for 2 stripped 12 point head bolts. I am going to have to go town in the morning and see if I can find those bolt extractor socket things. Hopefully that'll get them out.

When I ordered new head bolts I asked the dealer/parts counter guy to order me the head gasket and the bolts I would need. He brought me 8. I see there is like 19 of 'em. I had assumed they would have ordered in all 19 but I guess I wasn't specific enough? Oh well, it is what it is and i'll just keep on truckin'. See how this thing pans out lol.

AJ. · Jan 30, 2015

It would be my guess that they are not stretch bolts and the conventional way of torquing them should be used,I have a manual for a 76 118 and it is the conventional way,replacing the all the bolts is the way to go,if two are gone round you may as well put in the set and it takes the worry out of them failing later.
AJ

Case450 · Jan 31, 2015

Headache...my bolt extractor busted

AJ. · Jan 31, 2015

Tell me the size of the socket as I may know what is the next size down in metric,you can buy a couple and hammer them on to the bolt head.or if you are good with a welder you can weld on something to turn them,the smaller size socket is a good option because the shock of it been hammered on often loosens the bolt grip,see how you fair out.
AJ
Ps Forgot to say don't use an impact wrench working on engine parts,use hand tools only.

Case450 · Feb 3, 2015

I finally got all the head bolts out. 19 of 'em in my marked cardboard template.

The new head gasket came in and the new head bolts from the dealer and they are all wrong. Go figure!

I plan on taking in the old head bolts and the old head gasket right to the dealer and say order these.

This leads me to my next questions lol, the exhaust manifold, air intake manifold and the thermostat housing should come off with the head or do those all have to be removed as well? Near as I can figure it looks like they can all come off with the head....it'd be a touch heavy but I can ask my brother help me lift it off. If that is the case I have an exhaust header bracket nut to remove and she should come off (fingers crossed). I'll take another kick at the can tomorrow and see if I can't get that bad boy off of there.

AJ. · Feb 3, 2015

Yes if there is room I would go for taking it off in one piece as the exhaust bolts can be rusted and break easily,if all the joints are good there is no need to remove them,you can cut the heads from two of the old head bolts to make two guide bolts for installing the head,screw one in each end a couple of threads they will keep things in line,before you put the head on bring #2 piston to the top and put a match mark on the pulley and on the front cover,then turn the engine c/w till #1 piston is up fully,put another mark on the pulley in line with the mark on the cover,back off an inch or two so the piston is down the bore,when the head is back on and the rocker shaft on you will be setting the tappets,bring the mark on the pulley to the mark on the cover and see if both valves on #1 cylinder are closed,if they are set the clearance of the two,if not turn the engine one full turn and then set the clearance of the two valves on #1,turn the engine c/w to the next mark and set the clearance on #3 cylinder,turn to next mark set #4 next mark #2,tappets are done.
Happy wrenching
AJ

188 cummins torque procedure?

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