MF Loader Questions

Hello, I'm new to YTC and to tractors so I'll try not to be too newb here.

I recently purchased a MF tractor; the front half is a MF 204 and the back half is a 1956 TO35. According to the previous owner he's the one who put them together and that the tractor(I don't remember which half but assuming the 204) used to have an automatic trans until the merge. I have no idea of the year of the 204 and he doesn't remember but did provide me with the service manual that came with it when he bought it(with a shot tranny) and I found the number "340063" on various pages.

This tractor also came with a front loader but I am unsure how to identify it so that I can get parts. The control valve for raising and lowering the bucket has a cast plate on the bottom of it that is broken. I'm trying to locate that part. The control valve body has the number "A100" on it and the plate has "B388" on it.







Thank you for any education you can provide.

I think that is a MF loader, that was built as a Davis, Midwest at one time. The valve could be replaced by a Cross or some other brand but you will have to do some slight modifications for it to work, or maybe you can find the casting to replace the one you have. I have a Davis on a ford 600 and replaced that with a cross and it works fine.

Thank you for responding. I have looked at a few sites for another valve but with all the options and terminology I have no idea what I need. I've just started looking for another plate. I have no fab skills nor any tools to work metal. This should tell you how new I am to tractors; I still have to learn how to start it.

Is there some kind of markings or ID plate on the loader somewhere that I could cross reference? I've seen some books advertised but since I can't identify the model of this loader yet I hesitate to buy anything.

Are there rebuild kits for the control valve and where could I purchase one?

Where can I buy replacement lines? None of mine are leaking or broken yet but it never hurts to be ready for the inevitable. I'm still looking for local to me places to buy parts but it doesn't hurt to have backups either. Thank you.

I have a MF/Davis model 101 102 loader on a Massey 35. The data
plate says 101 102, I have also seen 100 and 200 loaders described
that are similar. Might want to check Google images and see if you
can match what you have visually. Surplus center in Nebraska has
everything hydraulic at very low prices, surpuscenter.com is the
website.
Zach

Thank you for responding Zachary. Would you please tell me where your data plate is located? Maybe mine will be located in the same vicinity. I've tried looking at images for the last 3 days but without being able to narrow it down some I gave up as my eyes are tired. The closest pic or youtube video I've found that resembles what I have is a 1950ish 202 WorkBull, but that's not exactly what I have.

I've looked at Surplus Center as well as a few others. The ones on that site are twice as much as a couple I've found on Amazon but without knowing anything about them I'd have no idea what exactly to purchase. TBH if I did go that route a new mounting plate would have to be fabbed and welded into place for the new control valve. If I'm going to spend that much to hire someone to do all that I might as well just have a new plate made to replace the broken one.

For you information most likely the reason your end cab is cracked is moisture collects in those little cups and froze breaking the cap. Need to check you fluid for moisture. Nothing special about that valve. Open center with no detents. Be pretty easy to re plumb but a machine shop should be able to take you pieces and fab one. Good person might be able to weld that one.

Start looking around for a machine shop, welding shop and a hydraulic repair shop.

I can no longer source OEM parts for my rigs or I can't afford them (dealer prices are phenomenal) so I have an assortment of shops that I use for part, fabrication and information. Don't be afraid to call those shops, tell 'em what your problem is and if they can't help ask them if they know of a shop that can help. I did that when I first started turning wrenches years ago and now I have a ton of places I can call. This forum and the guys here have pulled my a$$ out of the fire more than one time! lol

As for your cracked plate, take it to a welding shop or a machining shop, they should be able to repair that. For the time and money it'll cost to try find an OEM replacement you'd be quicker and it'll work just as well.

If that's the spool valve from it in the last picture it can be clearly seen that the chrome has lifted off and the spool is rusted,it would be my guess that the oil is escaping past the spool and into the cap causing it to break,you would be better off to fit a generic two spool valve than trying to repair that one as more than likely the spool bore is damaged too.
AJ

Welcome to YT, HedHurts. Welcome to the world of fabrication to make old stuff keep working too.

As was mentioned above, and is obvious in your picture, the spool is not in good condition to start with, so fixing what you have is only a temporary and poor fix for what will be causing trouble even after the "fix" to get it back together. I second the motion to replacing the valve. Fabricating a mounting plate is even less work than fabbing your end cap plate. Get an inexpensive used 'buzz box' welder and learn to do some welding yourself - it isn't rocket science, and the skill will serve you well in keeping lots of other stuff working.

To replace the valve, you'll need a 2 spool valve, preferably with one having a 'float' position to allow the loader to 'float' with the ground level. No endorsement intended, but because it was mentioned and you probably have a Surplus Center catalog (or can look them up on line), as an example, item# 9-4782, 25gpm, joystick valve with float; or for a 2 handle (and slightly less expensive) unit, the 9-6702-F. The joystick models are a bit easier to use, as you can 'ease' two functions (raise and dump / lower and curl) at the same time easier than with the two handle models.

Most loader applications should have a valve rated for at least 20 gpm for cylinder cross sections of 9sq" or greater (2 2.5" cylinders).

Hope that helps.